ALL THE NEW CALIBRES
Beneath the subtly redesigned Kalpa case is a new movement that pays homage to the roots of Parmigiani Fleurier. Calibre PF365 is the world’s first solid gold self-winding integrated chronograph movement and is the result of six years of development at the manufacture. This movement is one of the few high frequency chronographs in the industry, oscillating at 36,000vph or 5Hz. Unlike the older Kalpa chronographs, this one has a caseback that fully exposes the movement, offering views of the beautifully decorated movement. Swathed in haute horlogerie finishes, this gorgeous calibre has partially skeletonised bridges around which 54 sharp internal angles can be found, which means traditional hand bevelling and chamfering. Like most of the best chronograph movements of our time, this one is column wheelcontrolled and activated via a vertical clutch mechanism. A Cosc-certified chronometer, this tonneau- shaped movement fits perfectly within the Kalpa case and stays powered for a maximum of 65 hours. www.parmigiani.com
Continuing the Minerva tradition of building some of the world’s best chronographs, Montblanc presented a manufacture chronograph calibre that pays tribute to the great watchmaking firm but in a modern and trendy way. Even though it doesn’t come with the signature devil’s tail bridges found in historical Minerva movements, Calibre MB 25.10 has its own set of high watchmaking hallmarks: bridges with Cotes de Geneve, plates with circular graining, classical blued screws and well-bevelled edges.
This self-winding movement winds the mainspring with a monobloc oscillating weight in black rhodium-plated tungsten that’s designed in the shape of a steering wheel, which is a nod to Minerva’s glory days of motor racing. As a chronograph, Calibre MB 25.10 is about as traditional as can be: column wheel control with horizontal instead of vertical coupling, and a stop- second mechanism that comes in handy when setting the time.
Calibre MB 25.10 is cased in the Timewalker Manufacture Chronograph which has an iconic tricounter panda dial that gracefully balances heritage with style. www.montblanc.com
Half a century ago, the Polaris Memovox by Jaeger- Lecoultre was released for the first time. That mid- century spirit is now infused into the new 2018 Polaris collection which also features a refreshed Polaris Memovox. Crafted in a limited edition of 1,000 pieces, the Memovox of 2018 features an unmistakable three- crown design on a 42mm stainless steel case. On this piece, one is able to set the alarm using the top crown, activating a striking mechanism with a gong which rings even in the water, with a resistance up to 200m.
The recently announced partnership between Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini Squadra Corse has also birthed two distinctive 45mm timepieces which bear hallmarks of both the storied Italian marque and the irrepressible Geneva watchmaker. Gentleman racers will surely notice a resemblance of engine strut bars on the revamped 312-part RD103SQ hand-wound movement, while the double balance wheels are inclined and supported by holders similar to wheel suspension assemblies. A carbon and titanium case architecture is overmoulded with rubber to further reflect the supercar association. Meanwhile, the same C-SMC carbon used on actual Lamborghini cars is also employed in the construction of the Excalibur Aventador S Blue. Both the blue and pink gold variants are limited to 88 pieces each.