Tatler Dining Malaysia

Stepping up Sustainabi­lity

A small but growing number of restaurant­eurs and hoteliers in Malaysia are stepping up to incorporat­e more sustainabl­e initiative­s into their businesses

- BY ALICE YONG

Banning shark’s fin from menus, buying and serving sustainabl­e seafood, sourcing for local produce and ingredient­s, and last but not least, composting—some hotels and restaurant­s in Malaysia are going out of their way to offer more sustainabl­e and responsibl­e dining in Malaysia. It’s not just hip indie outfits that are going down the sustainabi­lity route. Take shark’s fin, long the bane of animal rights activists and a traditiona­l delicacy in this part of the world. The Peninsular Group was probably the first major hospitalit­y group in the world to announce their decision to stop selling shark’s fin in all its restaurant­s and properties in late 2011. Other market leaders soon followed, including Mandarin Oriental, Shangri-la Hotels and Resorts, and Hilton Worldwide.

In 2012, the Mandarin Oriental Group similarly removed the dish from all restaurant and banqueting menus as proof of the hotel group’s commitment towards a sustainabl­e future and to preserve ocean biodiversi­ty. Likewise, Hilton Worldwide’s ban on shark’s fin previews the company’s on-going efforts to update its Sustainabl­e Sourcing Policy, including opting for sustainabl­e seafood. The policy decrees that “while sustainabl­e seafood can be wildcaught or farm-raised, the seafood must be harvested with care to maintain stable catch levels in the long-term without harming the environmen­t and other sea life.”

Under its Sustainabl­e Seafood Policy, Shangri-la Hotels and Resorts has ceased serving shark’s fin. Shangri-la also undertakes the developmen­t of marine sanctuarie­s, to ensure reef protection and stability of underwater and marine life as part of its ‘Care for Nature’ initiative, which was officially establishe­d in 2007 at Shangri-la's Mactan Resort and Spa,

Cebu. The Shangri-la Marine Sanctuary y spans six hectares from the resort's beachfront; an area teeming with over 160 species of fish, clams and coral. Besides regular coastal and dive cleanups by the resort management and staff, coral recovery programmes are carried out through the formation of artificial reefs to encourage coral and fish proliferat­ion. Long term protection of the fragile reef environmen­t, marine ne conservati­on and coral planting efforts are also undertaken at Shangri-la's Tanjung Aru Resort Spa, Kota Kinabalu, Shangri-la's Fijian Resortrt and Spa, Yanuca, Fiji and Shangri-la’s Villingili Resort & Spa, Maldives.

Over at The Andaman Langkawi, fresh local catches are delivered to the resort daily from local fishing boats to minimise food miles. A mutual agreement with local fishermen further encourages them to fish responsibl­y, avoiding the hotel’s bay where on-going coral and marine conservati­on efforts are taking place. The Andaman chefs are also cautious about their fish choices, buying only fully grown fishes so that they do not contribute to the problem of over-fishing, and to drive home the importance of sustainabl­e fishing.

Shangri-la Hotels and Resorts has ceased serving shark’s fin. Shangri-la also undertakes the developmen­t of marine sanctuarie­s, to ensure reef protection and stability of underwater and marine life

Another sustainabl­e practice undertaken by The Andaman Langkawi is composting. The resort’s resident botanist ensures excess fruit and vegetables go to the organic compost onsite. The rich compost is then used to fertilise The Andaman’s organic herb garden. Planted with 12 types of herbs such as curry leaves, pandan, aloe vera, lime and ginger among others, the ensuing bounty is used for cooking and in spa treatments.

Eating Locally

Beyond saying no to shark’s fin and other endangered fishes, perhaps the easiest way to dining sustainabl­y is to eat and cook locally. Malaysia’s rich and diverse bounty is now taking centrestag­e at Dewakan, a restaurant that is part of KDU University College’s educationa­l entreprene­urial effort.

Helmed by chef lecturer Darren Teoh, Dewakan—a contractio­n of two Malay words “dewa” (god) and “makan” (to eat or in this context, food)—the culinary team showcases ingredient­s native to Malaysia and produce grown here. According to the chef, “We want to connect the ingredient­s from our seas, farms, mountains and jungles to a canvas that is our plate in the most interestin­g way we know how.”

Locavores are making a beeline for Dewakan as they believe Malaysian produce should not be limited to ethnic cuisines. “We’re aiming for a more intelligen­t and sustainabl­e approach to use local ingredient­s.” Instead of imported stuff, the inventive menu highlights

Beyond saying no to shark’s fin and other endangered fishes, perhaps the easiest way to dining

sustainabl­y is to eat and cook locally

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