Tatler Dining Malaysia

SPG By Bijan

The Good Food Trio presents Sarong Party Grill, the new sister establishm­ent of Bijan Bar & Restaurant.

- Words by Aina Izzah

Short for 'Sarong Party Grill,' SPG is Bijan's littler sister that loves a good party and petai cocktails—you read right

Cheekily alluding to the colonial period that birthed the term ‘sarong party girl’ (an Asian woman who consorted with British officers), SPG by Bijan Bar & Restaurant merges history with modernity seamlessly. You can dress down, as I did, in your favourite pair of denim jeans, and not feel out of place in the retro-themed restaurant. Here are some high notes from our preview of the restaurant’s menu, which includes some novel items (like a cocktail with pickled petai and gin called The Stinkini).

AMBIENCE

Artist Noemy Zainal painted batik motifs on the walls of SPG by Bijan; aptly showcasing local art to restaurant goers. Rattan furniture and bright jewel tones complete the picture. With the space divided into three sections— the lounge, a tapas bar and a private room— there is a space for any occasion.

DRINKS

The art of mixology has always seemed like science to me, and SPG’S skilled bartenders are no strangers to mixing up mocktails as well as cocktails. While taking slow sips of the Bluepea Tonic, I tried to identify the ingredient­s—refreshing lemon, sweet honey, and butterfly pea flower that gives off a pretty violet tint.

The Kedondong Kampung is SPG’S take on an asam boi drink with all the mouthpucke­ring sourness of umbra and calamansi. If you’re looking for something stronger, the Asam Pedas cocktail is spicy and sour, using tequila, triple sec and tamarind juice.

EATS

An appetising introducti­on to the menu, the Keropok-kerepek is a platter of crispy homemade crackers, served with three types of sambal dips—of which we kept going back to the sambal hijau offering.

I had long heard that jackfruit can taste almost identical to meat, and at SPG, the fruit is done rendang-style and presented stuffed into toasted mantou buns. While we still don’t believe jackfruit can be mistaken for meat, the jackfruit bao is definitely a delicious option for those who want to avoid it.

As for non-vegan mains, the skewered chicken satay marinated in ginger soy sauce gave off an appetising smoky aroma, while the pan-seared black pomfret and grilled lamb loin were equally tasty—it simply depends if you’re in the mood for surf or turf.

Desserts capped the exquisite lunch. We began with the pulut mango cake, featuring layers of chilled mango mousse, coconut glutinous rice, and shortbread. Ice cream aficionado­s will go ‘Bananas Over Bananas,’ which combines homemade banana ice cream with caramelise­d bananas, finishing with a dehydrated banana cone on top.

Experience a new wave of Malaysian cuisine at SPG by Bijan. Pro tip: Come in loose clothing, so you can hide your food baby, or better still, wear your favourite, stylish sarong; just make sure it doesn’t fall off if you ever decide to hit the dance floor after.

Batik motifs by artist Noemy Zainal line the walls of the eatery, aptly showcasing local art to restaurant goers

 ??  ?? REINVENTIN­G TRADITIONS
Clockwise from top left: vegetarian jackfruit bao; chicken kicap skewers in ginger soy sauce; the spicy and sour Asam Pedas cocktail; roti jala served with kaffir lime chicken curry
REINVENTIN­G TRADITIONS Clockwise from top left: vegetarian jackfruit bao; chicken kicap skewers in ginger soy sauce; the spicy and sour Asam Pedas cocktail; roti jala served with kaffir lime chicken curry
 ??  ?? BURNING UP
From top:
The beautiful interiors; heating up the grill for Malay inspired cuisine
BURNING UP From top: The beautiful interiors; heating up the grill for Malay inspired cuisine
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