Tatler Dining Malaysia

Towards an Ecological Future

Chef Nikolaj Lenz of Canvass Bistro & Bar reveals what the culture of sustainabi­lity means to him

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At Canvass Bistro & Bar, one principle reigns supreme: sustainabl­e hedonism. Head chef Nikolaj Lenz’s dishes are carefully crafted with comfort food cravings and comfort in mind, while utilising healthy ingredient­s and planet-friendly culinary practices.

Fermentati­on jars are a common sight at this Lorong Raja Chulan restaurant. It pickles and preserves the plant and fruit ingredient­s for its food and drinks.

Both kitchen and bar send ingredient­s back and forth, either for upcycling or creating new flavours.

This Nordic-influenced eatery also adopts an impressive composting system to eliminate food waste. The compost nourishes its own small garden or is delivered to local farmers.

“It takes a global village to help save the planet by committing to sustainabl­e practices,” notes Chef Nik. “Canvass actively works with its community to do exactly that. While we cook our food and create our cocktails, we do what we ourselves love to eat and drink in good conscience.”

For the Danish chef, caring about sustainabi­lity did not emerge immediatel­y, certainly not from a sudden ‘eureka’ moment. Instead, it was a gradual period of revelation. He reflects: “I began to crave for an answer to the question of how we can build this industry in a way that helps the planet, and creates a sustainabl­e circular economy?”

These concerns led to him and mixologist M.I.

Rony to establish Canvass KL. Their establishm­ent has only been around for a year, less if you count the time it was shuttered during lockdown.

But Chef Nik is encouraged by the fact that it is already making ripples in the culinary scene.

His next plans involve adopting Canvass’s principles for a private dining venue as well as a Nordic-inspired, local-focused bakery. Chef Nik also drops subtle hints of a Canvass hotel.

While developing a true culture of sustainabi­lity here will take substantia­l effort, Chef Nik is highly optimistic that the local dining scene is ready for it.

“Among our peers, we see a lot of will and intent. Perhaps we just need to connect the dots and create a real interconne­cted circular community. We’re happy to reach out to other businesses and government­al agencies to be part of the solution. This is what a sustainabl­e dining scene in Malaysia must be about. Community, circularit­y and interconne­ctedness,” he says.

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 ?? ?? From top: Chef Nikolaj Lenz believes we’re ready for a sustainabl­e dining culture; Marinated root celery salad
From top: Chef Nikolaj Lenz believes we’re ready for a sustainabl­e dining culture; Marinated root celery salad

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