Tatler GMT (Malaysia)

The Perpetuity of Time

Continuing its legacy of sophistica­ted timepieces, A Lange & Söhne unveils beautiful new renditions of a grand complicati­on and a dual time wristwatch

- By Andre Frois

German luxury watch manufactur­er A Lange & Söhne has made numerous contributi­ons to the advancemen­t of mechanical watchmakin­g, from special escapement designs and remontoire­s to unique styles of deadbeat seconds and beryllium alloy balance springs. Founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, it is the most famous brand that the small watchmakin­g town of Glashütte has ever produced.

Some of its most celebrated timepieces include the 1815, Lange 1, Datograph, Double Split, Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite”, Saxonia and Zeitwerk, many of which have soared in secondary value in recent years thanks to pandemic‑ and crypto‑related events.

Since its inception, A Lange & Söhne’s passion for horologica­l innovation has never dwindled. Earlier this year, the manufactur­e stopped many attendees of Watches and Wonders 2023 in their tracks with its new launch, the Odysseus Chronograp­h, a uniquely constructe­d timer with a spellbindi­ng reset motion. From dial colour to case material and movement mechanism, the brand also takes special care to make ideal selections that pay tribute to traditiona­l German watchmakin­g. Its tireless diligence and spirit of conservati­on are largely why it has amassed a global cult following.

Much to watch enthusiast­s’ delight, the storied manufactur­e has just unveiled new editions of two technicall­y and aesthetica­lly riveting timepieces: the 1815 Rattrapant­e Perpetual Calendar and the Lange 1 Time Zone Platinum. Both are gladly received additions to the highly sought‑after 1815 and Lange 1 collection­s respective­ly.

RARE AND EXCEPTIONA­L

Making its triumphant return this year with a refreshed look is the coveted 1815 Rattrapant­e Perpetual Calendar of 2013 (which, incidental­ly, was a watershed year for the brand that also saw the unveiling of its Grand Complicati­on—a horologica­l feat comprising a perpetual calendar, a monopusher split‑seconds chronograp­h with flying seconds, a grande sonnerie, a petite sonnerie and

Since its inception, A Lange & Söhne’s passion for horologica­l innovation has never dwindled. From dial colour to case material and movement mechanism, the brand also takes special care to make ideal selections that pay tribute to traditiona­l German watchmakin­g. Its tireless diligence and spirit of conservati­on are largely why it has amassed a global cult following

a minute repeater—at Salon Internatio­nal de la Haute Horlogerie; limited to just six pieces worldwide and with a calling price of 1.92 million euros). Sporting a white gold case this time, the 2023 edition of the 1815 Rattrapant­e Perpetual Calendar comes with an eye‑catching solid pink gold dial—only the third A Lange & Söhne timepiece to bear one, after the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon of 2019 and the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar of 2021. Other features include rhodium‑plated as well as blued steel hands, and throwback aesthetics such as railway track scales and classic Arabic numerals, meant to evoke the beautiful A Lange & Söhne pocket watches of yesteryear.

Limited to 100 pieces, this white gold reference combines a rattrapant­e chronograp­h with a perpetual calendar and moon phase, and has an ab/auf (German for “up/down”) power reserve indicator—a mechanism patented by the manufactur­e that detects whether a watch is wound up or wound down, and displays its remaining power—synonymous with the 1815 collection. These absorbing complicati­ons are operated by two chronograp­h buttons, one rattrapant­e button, and separate recessed correctors that adjust the day, date, month and moon phase.

It is worth mentioning at this point that its chronograp­h can record durations with an accuracy of one sixth of a second because its movement, the calibre L101.1, beats with six semi‑oscillatio­ns per second. This highly accurate perpetual calendar will not need adjusting until March 1, 2100—a leap year that, according to the rules of the Gregorian calendar, will be skipped.

Speaking of the calibre, the hand‑decorated and hand‑assembled L101.1 has had all the upper surfaces of its moving parts individual­ly finished with straight graining, while its peripheral chamfers have been polished for contrast. Its plates and bridges have been crafted from untreated German silver. One can admire this high‑level finishing, along with screwed gold chatons, blued screws and a hand‑engraved balance cock, through the watch’s transparen­t caseback.

THE WORLD AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

Another acclaimed A Lange & Söhne classic that has been reimagined with an enticing new visage is the Lange 1 Time Zone of 2005, a sophistica­ted world timer that is now available in a sleek 950 platinum case with a rhodium‑coloured dial in solid silver.

In 2020, the manufactur­e equipped this world timer with the new calibre L141.1, which includes a daylight‑saving time indication and delivers a power reserve of 72 hours from just one mainspring barrel.

Like the movements of other A Lange & Söhne watches, the Lange manufactur­e calibre L141.1 is skilfully decorated and assembled by hand, then precision‑adjusted in five positions. Similar to the new 1815 Rattrapant­e Perpetual Calendar, exquisite hand‑finished details of the movement, such as fine satin finishing on the wheels and mirrored anglage on the bridge edges, can be admired through the watch’s transparen­t sapphire crystal caseback.

High legibility is a cornerston­e of all A Lange & Söhne creations and the Lange 1 Time Zone does not compromise on this despite the fact that it has a number of displays on

High legibility is a cornerston­e of all A Lange & Söhne creations and the Lange 1 Time Zone does not compromise on this despite the fact that it has a number of displays on the dial

the dial: two subdials showing home time and current time, each with a ring‑shaped day/night indicator that now sits at its centre; a stop‑seconds subdial; a city ring for adjusting the second time zone; a daylight‑saving time indication; a date display; and an ab/auf power reserve indicator.

Both reading and setting the complicati­ons are made easy. Telling the time of day using the day/night indicator, for instance, is a breeze: if the hour hand falls within the 180‑degree arc in blue, it is night‑time (6 pm to 6 am); anywhere outside and it is daytime (6 am to 6 pm). To know if your selected city, which is indicated by the arrow applique at 5 o’clock, implements daylight‑saving time, simply look to its aperture, which will be coloured red if the answer is affirmativ­e.

As for adjustment­s, the corrector button at the 10 o’clock position modifies the date, while the one at 8 o’clock advances the city ring by one time zone per push; this will simultaneo­usly advance the hour pointer of the small subdial. The times in both time zones can be adjusted synchronou­sly when the crown is pulled to its second position, but if the time zone corrector is pressed and held at the same time, the hour hand on the smaller hours‑and‑minutes dial will stop and not adjust, but its minute hand will still be adjusted.

Like the new 1815 Rattrapant­e Perpetual Calendar, the new Lange 1 Time Zone Platinum is 41.9 mm in case diameter and has a commanding presence on the wrist.

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 ?? ?? From top: The new 1815 Rattrapant­e Perpetual Calendar with a pink gold dial—only the third timepiece in A Lange & Söhne’s line-up to sport one; the hand-decorated and -assembled calibre L101.1 combines a rattrapant­e chronograp­h with a perpetual calendar and moon phase
From top: The new 1815 Rattrapant­e Perpetual Calendar with a pink gold dial—only the third timepiece in A Lange & Söhne’s line-up to sport one; the hand-decorated and -assembled calibre L101.1 combines a rattrapant­e chronograp­h with a perpetual calendar and moon phase
 ?? ?? Enjoy the glimmer of screwed gold chatons, blued screws and a hand-engraved balance cock through the transparen­t caseback of the 1815 Rattrapant­e Perpetual Calendar
Enjoy the glimmer of screwed gold chatons, blued screws and a hand-engraved balance cock through the transparen­t caseback of the 1815 Rattrapant­e Perpetual Calendar
 ?? ?? The Lange 1 Time Zone displays two time zones, and indicates day and night as well as daylight-saving time
The Lange 1 Time Zone displays two time zones, and indicates day and night as well as daylight-saving time
 ?? ?? The Lange 1
Time Zone’s transparen­t sapphire crystal caseback invites one to admire the painstakin­gly finished manufactur­e calibre L141.1 that has been precision-adjusted in five positions
The Lange 1 Time Zone’s transparen­t sapphire crystal caseback invites one to admire the painstakin­gly finished manufactur­e calibre L141.1 that has been precision-adjusted in five positions
 ?? ?? Calibre L141.1—the designing and engineerin­g
of which started in 2014—is a highly complex movement that enables the easy adjustment of the date and the city ring, along with the minutes and hours of its two hours-and-minutes dials
Calibre L141.1—the designing and engineerin­g of which started in 2014—is a highly complex movement that enables the easy adjustment of the date and the city ring, along with the minutes and hours of its two hours-and-minutes dials
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