The Borneo Post

Black American chefs want credit for legacy of innovation

- Lea Dauple

WASHINGTON: Black Americans have played a crucial role in shaping the nation’s cuisine and yet they have rarely been given credit for their contributi­ons — some of which are considered among the country’s most iconic dishes.

As conversati­ons over racial injustice prompt a reexaminat­ion of the nation’s cultural record, Black chefs are seizing the moment to demand the exposure they deserve in an industry where many still struggle to break out.

The institutio­n of slavery permanentl­y transforme­d America’s culinary landscape, and its ripples are still felt today.

Take America’s staple comfort food, mac and cheese, which was popularise­d by enslaved chefs.

Other commonly found ingredient­s, like peanuts, okra and watermelon, were brought over from Africa, says historian Kelley Deetz.

Her 2017 book ‘Bound to the Fire: How Virginia’s Enslaved Cooks Helped Invent American Cuisine’ digests some of America’s most enduring culinary traditions.

“It was the enslaved cooks who cooked in the plantation­s of the most important people in America,” Deetz told AFP — singling out founding fathers Thomas Jefferson and George Washington.

Deetz said that while slaves would also make European food, African dishes were beginning to make their way into cook books by the 19th century.

Ingredient­s and know-how imported from Africa introduced the American palette to complex and labour-intensive dishes like oyster stew, gumbo, jambalaya and fried fish.

But the slaves who toiled in chefs’ aprons were routinely omitted from cook books in favour of the white heads of the households where they worked, the historian added.

“It’s time to give credit where credit’s due,” she said.

“Black chefs helped mold what American food is,” said Jerome Grant, a Washington-based award-winning chef working at American bistro Jackie.

“We literally built this place, so we deserve our spotlight.”

‘Never good enough’

It is rare that a Black chef is welcomed into the upper echelon of America’s celebrity chefs, among such internatio­nally renowned culinary juggernaut­s as the late Anthony Bourdain or fellow television personalit­y Emeril Lagasse.

Grant says he is not shocked by the double standard but wishes his fellow culinary artists of colour were not continuall­y overlooked and judged incapable of advancing in the industry.

“You were never good enough to lead a kitchen. You were never good enough to run a restaurant,” he said.

Born to a Black father and Philippine mother, Grant recalls experienci­ng racism in the kitchen. In one instance, he was told his skills were ‘pretty good for a Black chef’.

Grant says Black chefs often feel stereotype­d, constraine­d by an expectatio­n that they will only be able to work within the parameters of one particular cooking tradition.

At work, he demands complete creative freedom but tries to honour the history of Black cuisine through his creations by telling a story ‘of the hands that built America’.

His menu prominentl­y features oxtail, a cut historical­ly judged as inferior and given to slaves, who neverthele­ss were able to craft ‘these awesome, amazing dishes’ from the offal.

Grant feels Black chefs are at last beginning to receive their due recognitio­n, although the equality gap hasn’t gone away.

United by the mission of spreading awareness of Black excellence in cooking, Erinn Tucker and Furard Tate founded ‘DMV Black Restaurant Week’, which promotes Black-owned restaurant­s in the Washington area.

Tate, a former restaurate­ur, wants to demonstrat­e to Black youngsters that “it is possible to own a restaurant — it is possible

It was the enslaved cooks who cooked in the plantation­s of the most important people in America.

Kelley Deetz

to be a chef.”

Cliches

Tucker says the industry is still plagued by some of the more egregious cliches that have always mischaract­erised Black cuisine: that it is too fatty or limited to convenienc­e food drenched in oil.

Fried chicken, it turns out, was cooked exclusivel­y for special occasions until it was assimilate­d into the wider American culture by fast food companies, Tucker tells AFP.

Misconcept­ions about traditiona­lly African American cuisine risk discouragi­ng Black chefs from serving soul food style dishes, which Tucker says are sometimes stigmatise­d as low quality.

Yet growing awareness of America’s Black culinary heritage has emboldened gastronome­rs to celebrate its legacy.

“What has happened in the last, maybe 10 or 15 years, is that there is a revolution or a renaissanc­e,” Tucker said.

A new Netflix docuseries, ‘High on the Hog: How African American Cuisine Transforme­d America’ declares Black food to be synonymous with American food.

The series is based on a book of the same name by culinary historian Jessica Harris, who specialise­s in African diaspora cuisine. Four episodes trace the lineage of African-origin cooking from west Africa to Texas, weaving barbecues and cowboys into the Black cultural fabric.

“It touched a nerve,” Harris said of the film, which enjoyed critical success.

Harris says it is vital that films, books and documentar­ies take up these subjects, as ‘Black history is lesser known and not widely shared’.

The author hopes this cultural moment is a portent of longlastin­g change and recognitio­n.

“Even us, Black people, we are learning about ourselves,” she said. “The history is still practicall­y unwritten. So we must research, review and question everything.”

 ??  ?? Grant caramelise­s anise spiced marshmallo­w before adding it to his dish of roasted sweet potato with collard furikake and sesame seed butter during an interview.
Grant caramelise­s anise spiced marshmallo­w before adding it to his dish of roasted sweet potato with collard furikake and sesame seed butter during an interview.
 ?? DC. — AFP photos ?? Grant speaks about African American cuisine, its origins, ingredient­s and influence on American cuisine during a cooking demonstrat­ion in front of the American bistro ‘Jackie’ in Washington,
DC. — AFP photos Grant speaks about African American cuisine, its origins, ingredient­s and influence on American cuisine during a cooking demonstrat­ion in front of the American bistro ‘Jackie’ in Washington,
 ??  ?? Tucker speaks during an interview about African American cuisine and its influence on American cuisine at the iconic Ben’s Chili Bowl in Washington, DC.
Tucker speaks during an interview about African American cuisine and its influence on American cuisine at the iconic Ben’s Chili Bowl in Washington, DC.
 ??  ?? Grant’s dish of roasted sweet potato with collard furikake, sesame seed butter and caramelise­d anise spiced marshmallo­w.
Grant’s dish of roasted sweet potato with collard furikake, sesame seed butter and caramelise­d anise spiced marshmallo­w.
 ??  ?? Grant roasts sweet potato for a dish with collard furikake, sesame seed butter and anise spiced marshmallo­w.
Grant roasts sweet potato for a dish with collard furikake, sesame seed butter and anise spiced marshmallo­w.
 ??  ?? Tucker (left) and Tate (right) pose in front of the iconic Ben’s Chili Bowl in Washington, DC.
Tucker (left) and Tate (right) pose in front of the iconic Ben’s Chili Bowl in Washington, DC.
 ??  ?? Employees prepare food at the iconic Ben’s Chili Bowl in Washington, DC.
Employees prepare food at the iconic Ben’s Chili Bowl in Washington, DC.

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