The Borneo Post

Nepalis demand safeguards a decade after deadly Everest disaster

- Paavan Mathema

KATHMANDU: Ten years ago, Nepali mountain guide Dawa Tashi Sherpa was fighting for his life after being hit by an avalanche on Everest which was then the deadliest disaster on the world’s highest mountain.

The accident, which killed 16 Nepali guides on April 18, 2014, shone a spotlight on the huge dangers they face to let highpaying foreign clients reach their dreams.

Without their critical work to carve out climbing routes, fix ropes, repair ladders and carry heavy gear up the mountain, few foreign visitors could make it to the daunting peak’s top.

A decade ago, a wall of snow barrelled through the Nepali guides as they heaved heavy kit up the treacherou­s high-altitude Khumbu icefall in the freezing dark. The force of the avalanche tossed Dawa Tashi about 10 metres (33 feet) down, injuring his rib cage, left shoulder blade and nose.

Dawa Tashi, then aged 22, recalled his friends who died. Three of their bodies were never recovered.

“I was lucky to survive. In the hospital, whenever I tried to sleep, they would appear in front of my eyes,” he told AFP.

The disaster led to protests for improved benefits and conditions for the guides, and an unpreceden­ted shutdown on the peak for a season.

We were advocating for the Nepali climbers, ensuring they can get as much benefit as possible. But not all demands could be met as there were limitation­s.

Ang Tshering Sherpa

‘Tipping point’

It sparked a debate about compensati­on for the families of injured or killed Nepali guides and mountain workers.

Many are forced to rely on the charity of Western climbers – despite being employed by expedition companies and being fundamenta­l to the multimilli­ondollar industry’s success.

“It was very difficult back then,” said Nima Doma Sherpa, who lost her husband Tsering Onchu, 33, in the avalanche.

“What can you do when the main pillar of your house is not there? The children were small, and I was worried how I will educate them and how we will sustain ourselves.”

The government reaps hefty revenues from the lucrative climbing industry – in the last season in 2023, it earned more than US$5 million from Everest fees alone.

Soon after the 2014 accident, it pledged a meagre US$400 to the families of those killed to cover funeral expenses. The offer was rejected by angry Nepalis, whose families received only US$10,000 then in life insurance.

The resulting furious dispute, with Nepalis clamouring for better death and injury benefits from the government, saw days of tension at the base camp.

Sherpa guides, grief-stricken over the deaths of their colleagues, threatened to boycott climbing, throwing mountainee­rs’ plans into disarray and cancelling the season.

“It was a tipping point for young Sherpas who were frustrated,” said Sumit Joshi of expedition operator Himalayan Ascent, who lost three guides from his team in the avalanche that year. Since then, his Everest teams have not climbed on the anniversar­y date.

“Ten years on, there is an improvemen­t in their working conditions and the respect that they command,” he said.

Safety standards needed

In 2014, the protesters at Everest base camp made several demands. They included an improvemen­t in insurance payouts and a relief fund from mountain royalties.

“We were advocating for the Nepali climbers, ensuring they can get as much benefit as possible,” said Ang Tshering Sherpa who headed the Nepal Mountainee­ring Associatio­n at the time.

“But not all demands could be met as there were limitation­s.”

The insurance payout was increased by 50 per cent to 1.5 million Nepali rupees (US$11,250) if someone is killed.

Helicopter­s are now allowed to fly in supplies to higher camps, decreasing the number of trips Nepalis make across the treacherou­s Khumbu icefall.

Nepali companies have displaced foreign operators to bring in the majority of climbers, and pay and conditions have improved for guides at larger firms. But, guide Mingma G Sherpa said, little else has changed.

“They protested, but it was limited to the base camp. The main thing is that the government policies are still not good... we really need to set a standard for climbers to make the mountains safer,” he said.

‘Wives don’t agree’

In 2015, a powerful earthquake triggered an avalanche that killed 18 people at Everest’s base camp before the climbing season began. Last year’s season started with the death of three Nepali climbers carrying expedition supplies, after they were hit by glacial ice fall and swept into a crevasse.

Mingma G Sherpa said many local guides have quit the industry.

“The number of Sherpas has gone down significan­tly. Now companies have to go look for Sherpas. In the past, Sherpas would have to go around looking for work,” he said.

“We want to go to climb because we know the environmen­t there, but the family members don’t want to send. The mothers and wives don’t agree.”

Survivor Dawa Tashi, who began trekking when he was just 11, still guides climbers and returned to Everest in 2021. He is preparing to guide six Americans up the 6,461-metre-tall central Mera peak.

“There were improvemen­ts after the disaster, but it is not enough,” he said, pointing to the US$11,000 fee each foreigner pays to the government to climb Everest.

“The government... should make a fund to safeguard the manpower. The clients would also happily pay it, knowing that it will be used to take care of their team,” he said.

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 ?? — AFP photos ?? Nima Doma (centre), wife of avalanche victim and mountainee­r Tsering Onchu Sherpa who died in the 2014 avalanche, posing for a picture with their son Pemba Chetten Sherpa (left) and daughter Nima Yangji Sherpa during an interview with AFP in Kathmandu.
— AFP photos Nima Doma (centre), wife of avalanche victim and mountainee­r Tsering Onchu Sherpa who died in the 2014 avalanche, posing for a picture with their son Pemba Chetten Sherpa (left) and daughter Nima Yangji Sherpa during an interview with AFP in Kathmandu.
 ?? — AFP file photo ?? Photo shows the Everest Base Camp from Crampon Point, the entrance into the Khumbu icefall below Mount Everest, following an avalanche that killed sixteen Nepalese sherpas in the Khumbu icefall.
— AFP file photo Photo shows the Everest Base Camp from Crampon Point, the entrance into the Khumbu icefall below Mount Everest, following an avalanche that killed sixteen Nepalese sherpas in the Khumbu icefall.
 ?? — AFP file photo ?? This photograph taken on April 18, 2014 shows a Nepalese rescue helicopter at the Everest Base Camp as it helps to move an injured climber on a stretcher (bottom-centre) alongside another rescue worker following an avalanche that killed sixteen Nepalese sherpas in the Khumbu icefall.
— AFP file photo This photograph taken on April 18, 2014 shows a Nepalese rescue helicopter at the Everest Base Camp as it helps to move an injured climber on a stretcher (bottom-centre) alongside another rescue worker following an avalanche that killed sixteen Nepalese sherpas in the Khumbu icefall.
 ?? — AFP file photo ?? A Nepalese rescue helicopter landing at Everest Base Camp during rescue efforts.
— AFP file photo A Nepalese rescue helicopter landing at Everest Base Camp during rescue efforts.
 ?? ?? Nima looking at an old picture of her husband and family during an interview with AFP.
Nima looking at an old picture of her husband and family during an interview with AFP.
 ?? ?? Mingma G Sherpa, speaking during an interview with AFP in Kathmandu.
Mingma G Sherpa, speaking during an interview with AFP in Kathmandu.

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