Bread story
THERE really aren’t too many streets in Malaysia where you can have some trendy, hipster-ish fro-yo joints, juice bars, and container cafes (more on that below), right next to a century-old bakery that still runs on a wood-fire oven.
The Hiap Joo Bakery and Biscuit Factory is owned by Lim Meng Chin, 60, who now runs the business together with his son James, 33.
Ever since Lim’s father started the business in 1911, the family has used the same wood-fire oven to bake their cakes, breads and biscuits, which have become something of a hidden treasure among Johoreans.
“People like our buns because of the aroma you get from baking them in a wood-fire oven,” said Lim.
To say people like them is an understatement. The family fires up the oven at around 2am, allowing it to heat up for about five hours, and they start selling at noon. By 3pm, they’re usually sold out.
James is currently in charge of handling the oven, which sees him standing in front of the 280 degree celsius heat for hours at a time.
For James, the development of trendier food businesses around the heritage trail has been a good thing for the generations-old institutions in the area like his.
“When I was little, all the customers were from the older generation.” James said. “Now, we get a lot of younger people coming in, so everyone has benefitted.”
While James speaks passionately about the family craft, calling work at the bakery his “hobby”, he accepts that his children might not feel the same.
“I hope this tradition can be kept alive for many generations, but I won’t blame my children if they don’t want to continue it. I understand if they want to work towards an easier life.”