To Moscow with love
HAVING worked hard for a couple of months and with people keep asking if I had holiday plans, I decided on a bit of a whim to go somewhere far and really uncommon. Australia, New Zealand, Europe and Prague are wonderful places, but they didn’t excite me.
Russia with its KGB and spy portrayal, cold unfamiliarity and its far-oft vicinity appealed tremendously.
According to my Wikipedia research, Russia is the largest country in the world, covering more than one-eighth of the Earth’s inhabited land area and is the world’s ninth most populous nation with 143 million people.
That, and the fact that my beloved brother Junson (fondly called Jun), 21, is a medical student there influenced my decision. And so my pick was Moscow.
I promptly called a travel agency to book my hotel and flight ticket. I didn’t do much research on Russia (not the smartest thing to do) as I knew Jun would prepare a bustling itinerary for me.
I pretty much just booked my ticket and jumped onboard a plane.
So, after a long-haul flight (seven hours to Dubai and another four to Moscow), I landed at Domodedovo Airport with much trepidation. The temperature was 13°C when I arrived and I felt the stinging cold.
During my stay, the temperature fluctuated between 5°C and 19°C and I was mostly okay, thanks to my Uniqlo Heattech and woolly gloves.
Jun was at the arrival gate waiting for me and what a reunion it was. He had prepared vegetable soup specially for my arrival and that was my first meal in Moscow.
I had decided to stay in the Cosmos Hotel, a colossal communist-looking curved square of an edifice in the locale of Verdenha, 15 minutes from the city centre.
I later found out that the Cosmos was a symbol of Moscow and the Soviet Union and the likes of world chess champion Garry Kasparov had stayed there.
And thus, my Moscow holiday began. I would like to share my observations of the people and the country; not so much about the places I visited.
A beautiful country
For starters, Russia is one good-looking nation. If the Russians have a superiority complex, I completely understand why, because physically they are just so blessed.
The median height for girls is 177cm (5ft 8in) while guys are at least 188cm (6 ft 2in) tall. Tall, good looking with great body types, is it any wonder why many models come from Russia?
Faces I see on billboards back home, with the lost look in their eyes and tousled hair, fill the streets in Moscow. If you like Daniel Craig, there are plenty walking here too, looking tough, manly and cool.
The country could be an advertisement for a slimming campaign as everyone seems to be slim. The girls are well-groomed and the majority totter about in four-inch heel boots. Russians are more fashionable than trendy with a clear European style.
Sophisticated, elegant, sexy with plenty of jackets and safe colours, the women in Moscow dress very much like what you would see in a high-end advertisement or in a James Bond movie.
I also cannot help but notice that all girls have mascaraed lashes.
Surliness versus smiles
Prettiness aside, Moscow isn’t the warmest of places. We Asians have been spoiled by Asian hospitality and we’re used to smiles and friendliness. It’s our way of life. Not in Moscow, though. It took me quite a few days to adjust to the surliness of the Russians. I’m not sure if it’s because I’m Asian, but they just don’t smile very much.
The hotel staff spoke with nary a smile while the security officers played the part of a Russian spy to a tee. Suited up and straightfaced, they would insist on your guest card each time you go in and out.
Having stayed in Moscow for a year, Jun was used to it. “Everyone’s friendlier in the summer,” he said simply. The older generation can get pretty grumpy, but the younger generation (probably with YouTube and Facebook exposure) are friendlier. Well, of course there were exceptions and I met a number of friendly Russians as well.
Language barrier
English and the lack of it is an issue for tourists.
Almost no English is spoken here. Menus (except in bigger establishments) are all written in Russian, so it’s extremely hard to get around or even order a Subway sandwich. Furthermore, the Russians don’t seem to think that just because you’re not Russian, you don’t speak their language.
Fortunately, Jun speaks Russian so I was well taken care of. He ordered all my meals, read all the signs in the Metro station and asked passers-by to take our pictures.
Splendour abounds
Moscow is a huge and beautiful city with expansive and stoic buildings that come from the communist era.
The city has gorgeous parks and the locals enjoy spending their time there. It’s a modern city with a very traditional feel.
I was particularly fascinated with the Moscow Metro, a system that is mostly underground with the deepest built 84m down the ground and connecting some 188 stations.
It makes you wonder how the architects of yesteryears had the ingenuity to develop this extensive station.
This shows why Russia used to be a superpower and excels in everything from athletes, gymnastics, space research, physics, chess, music, the list goes on.
Each metro station is beautifully built, with intricate carvings and stone walls – very breathtaking and unique.
It also shows how brilliant their planning was, as the city has so much space above ground.
Stretching the Ringgit
Perhaps, most shocking to me were the prices of things. Jun had cautioned me that things were expensive, but I never expected the big difference. Food was at least three times more expensive than in Malaysia.
Suddenly, Malaysia seemed so inviting. This included all the fast food like Starbucks, McDonalds and typical chain restaurants.
I paid RM16 to RM20 for a cup of cappuccino each time, while a normal pasta cost more than RM30.
If you like the high life, Moscow is the place to be. The Goum, a high-end shopping mall built in medieval Russian architecture facing Red Square, houses brands like Barbara Bui, Manolo Blahnik along with other exclusive brands.
Jun insisted on entering shop after shop as he loves looking at designer items. I was terribly bored as everything was priced in the thousands.
Malaysia is four hours ahead of Moscow and while it doesn’t sound like much, it was a bit of a challenge to be bright-eyed when Jun announced we would be meeting his friends at 8pm.
It’s midnight in Malaysia and my eyes were feeling heavy. I relied on many cups of cappuccino to perk me up.
Jun also treated me to the musical The Golden Cockerel at the Bolshoi Theatre.
I was really excited and we both made the extra effort in our dressing.
Everyone was dressed up and it was surreal seeing blonde hair everywhere.
The musical’s a rich ensemble of colours, costumes and soprano singing.
The story is about the Tsar being given a Golden Cockerel that would warn him of imminent danger.
It was very beautifully executed and the lead singer was dazzling, but I have to confess ... I got bored after an hour.
Of course, I pretended to be interested as Jun was watching with rapt attention.
During break time, I witnessed their first world ethics when I went to the washroom.
A long queue had formed and I had expected to wait a fair bit like in Malaysia.
However, the line moved at lightning speed and soon it was my turn. Inside, the bathroom was spotless and dry.
I must also point out that when I went to the public washroom in the popular tourist spot, Red Square, it was also surprisingly clean. I also saw many people walking their dogs around the city, even in the airport.
As a dog lover, it was a beautiful sight to behold.
All in all, I had a great time visiting Red Square, Russia’s gorgeous parks, Arbat Street (that sells paintings, knick knacks and souvenirs) shopping malls, the zoo and the place where Jun stays.
I didn’t visit a lot of tourist attractions, as pointed out by my travel agent when I returned. Oh well, I just didn’t feel like it.
Yes, there was a wonderful museum I know I should have visited, but my legs were killing me at that time and I was in no mood to look at relics.
I truly appreciate Jun’s efforts in bringing me around and spending seven days with me traipsing around the city.
His friends were very hospitable and we had dinner at Arbat Street. It was so nice speaking Malaysian English in foreign land after days of “spasiba (thank you), and paka paka (good bye).”
I know of people who go on a vacation and feel like they didn’t want to return.
For me, the sight of the words “Kuala Lumpur” in the Dubai Airport filled me with unbelievable excitement.
I love my life in KL. Oh, to come back to my teh ais and steamboat, and best of all, the friendliness and warmth.
I landed in KLIA on May 4 ... Moscow opened my eyes.