The Star Malaysia - Star2

Drinking at dinner

Use the expert services of a sommelier if you’re new to wine.

- by edwin soon Edwin Soon is a qualified oenologist and has run wine shops and worked as a winemaker in various countries. He now writes and teaches about wine around Asia. Reader response to star2@thestar.com.my

WHY is my wine glass filled more sometimes and less at other times? When a wine is poured, enough room should be left in the glass for you to gently swirl the glass to release the wine’s bouquet/aroma. Restaurant­s will generally fill your glass two-thirds full, if you order by the bottle. If you order “wine by the glass”, it’s usually topped up to appear generous.

That said, there is no universal standard pour quantity for wines by the glass. Some establishm­ents pour 185ml per glass, while others pour 150ml. Do note that looks can be deceiving – a good pour of wine in a large glass might seem a bit low.

Is it rude to send back a bottle of wine after I’ve ordered it?

Absolutely not. This is the reason the sommelier lets you taste the wine after a bottle is opened. If you’ve detected faults in the wine (for example, corked or smelling of stale socks/wet newspapers; or oxidised or smelling stale, nutty, like burnt marshmallo­w or stewed fruit), you should call attention to it, just as you would if stale fish were served at the dining table.

In fine dining restaurant­s, sommeliers wear a “tastevin” – a small silver saucer – around their necks. After the sommelier opens your bottle, he/she might pour a tablespoon of the wine into the tastevin. By doing this, the sommelier can ascertain if the wine meets certain standards by visually examining and smelling it. For questionab­le wines that may or may not be flawed, a sommelier may suggest allowing the wine to breathe for a few minutes, cooling it, or even decanting it. But ultimately, if you feel that the wine is faulty, it will be accommodat­ed.

Note: The tastevin was created by Burgundian winemakers to enable them to judge the clarity and colour of wine that was stored in dim, candle-lit wine cellars.

What is the role of a sommelier?

A sommelier is not just a “wine waiter”. He/she is trained in wine selection and procuremen­t, wine storage and cellar rotation, wine service and especially wine and food pairing. In most restaurant­s, sommeliers are responsibl­e for the developmen­t of wine lists as well as wine training for the other restaurant staff. Sommeliers are usually qualified, with certificat­ion from one of the following: the Court of Master Sommeliers, the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, the Institute of Masters of Wine and/or the Internatio­nal Sommelier guild or other similar sommelier associatio­ns.

With such a qualificat­ion, the sommelier is regarded as a profession­al and the role according to the Sommeliers Australia Associatio­n, is “strategica­lly on a par with that of the executive chef or chef de cuisine”. My table has consumed more than half the bottle and we now realise that there might be a fault with the wine. Can I send it back?

You would look silly. Leave the rest of the wine and order a new bottle. If, however, you have been busy in conversati­on, and wine has been poured around the table, and you have found it to be faulty, you can ask for a “fresh” bottle of the same wine. The other glasses that have been poured will be removed and replaced.

I’m not familiar with the wine I ordered but I don’t like the taste. Can I return it?

Decorum dictates that faults are the only time you can return a wine. The returned wine can only be replaced with another of the same. It is therefore not in good taste to ask for another type of wine just because of personal taste preference.

The wine list is mind-boggling. Worst of all, I can’t pronounce any of the wine names. How do I order without appearing ignorant?

Use the services of the sommelier. Your sommelier will always be more than happy to recommend you a wine. If you recognise a familiar name, simply point to it and ask for the sommelier’s recommenda­tion or an alternativ­e wine choice.

You have nothing to be embarrasse­d about if you can’t pronounce the name of a wine. This is one of the reasons good restaurant­s have a sommelier.

I’m on a date but also on a budget. How do I let the sommelier choose my wine without breaking the bank?

Simple. Find a wine in the range that you can afford. Point to that price when you speak to the sommelier. Make sure he/she understand­s what you mean when you tell him/her, “I am looking for something similar to this”. You’ll get what you want and your date will never know. Oh, and don’t forget to leave a small tip for the service rendered.

If I am paying corkage fees, what wines should I bring?

Definitely not wine that is already on the restaurant’s wine list. And bringing a cheap or supermarke­t purchased wine defeats the purpose of paying the fee. Instead, bring a special wine. Some restaurant­s will waive the fee, bottle for bottle, if you order a bottle.

Best sommelier

Calling all budding sommeliers and wine lovers. If you are keen to witness sommeliers in action, there is no better time than June 30. This is when the grand finals of the Malaysia Best Sommelier Championsh­ip takes place. The event is from 2pm to 5.30pm at Doubletree by Hilton Kuala Lumpur, Ballroom B, Level 10, The Intermark, Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur.

Admission is free. I hope to see you there!

 ??  ?? Just a little more: There is a correct way to pour wine into a glass.
Just a little more: There is a correct way to pour wine into a glass.
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