This is on the nose
OUR varied selection of strong-smelling – some might say stinky – foods is legendary. It gets at least a mention in every piece of travel writing or TV programme from foreign sources ... and not always in flattering terms.
But Malaysians aren’t thrown off by the funky smell of these foods. We know that once we get past it, we’re up for some unusual, and in fact excellent, flavours.
I encountered one of these foods in a prank as a child. Someone told me to smell something, which made me gag. And then I began to wonder how they had managed to capture their fart in their hands. Because that’s how daun sekentut got its common Malay name – from the sulphurous smell it emits when cut or crushed.
But despite its name, daun sekentut tastes good and, oddly enough, is said to get rid of wind. It’s one of the herbs used in nasi ulam, , a dish which I think just screams Malaysia.
There are variations of this herbed rice salad from the various states and communities in the country, but they have common ingredients such as coconut, lemongrass, shallots and salted fish. I am featuring the versionsion from the north of the peninsula, which includes fried fresh fish.
It’s said that the best nasi ulam uses up to 44 different types of leaves, herbs and shoots. At the wet market or pasar malammalam, you may be able to find a vegetable seller with a bundle of ulam all ready for the dish. Unfortunately, the herbs don’t come already shredded.
That the hardest part about making the dish – everything has to be sliced finely by hand. Which means the best piece of advice I can give when making this dish is: Sharpen your knife before you start.
Nasi Ulam Utara
Serves 3-4 1¼ cups long-grain rice 4 fresh sardines or 2 medium ikan kembong, gutted ¼ cup salted ikan kurau, soaked in water ¼ cup dried prawns, soaked in water 1 cup grated fresh coconut 2cm galangal, peeled 2cm ginger, peeled 2-3 cili padi 5 shallots, peeled 3-5 kaffir lime leaves, centre vein removed 2-3 large torch ginger buds ( bunga kantan) 2-3 fat stalks lemongrass, white part only 2 cups finely shredded mixed fresh herbs (see note below) Sugar, salt and white pepper Juice from 2-3 limes
Cook the rice with a little salt and, if desired, a pinch of turmeric powder. Fluff up with a fork when cooked and leave to cool.
Shallow fry the sardines until cooked. Remove the flesh and flake it.
Drain the salt fish and dried prawns and fry them until crisp. Pound until fine.
Roast the grated coconut, stirring frequently, until brown and crisp. The toasted coconut can be left as is or pounded fine.
Pound the galangal, ginger and cili padi into a paste.
Finely slice the shallots, lime leaves, bunga kantan and lemongrass.
Toss all the ingredients together in a mixing bowl. Add seasonings and lime juice to taste. Serve with sambal belaand a curry.
Note: Use fresh herbs according to taste and availability. Examples: ulam raja, mint, turmeric leaf, pegaga, daun kaduk (wild betel leaf), and daun kesom ( laksa leaf). Layer all the leaves with the biggest one on the outside, roll up like a cigar and slice finely.
Jane writes The Wayward Oven cooking blog (waywardoven.blogspot.com).