Revisiting Land of the Rising Sun
IT is fast-paced living in Japan, especially where most people seem to be preoccupied with matters that need to be attended to almost immediately.
In contrast, as I land and begin to explore the area around me, time seems to stand still. In the midst of the bustle at Ikebukuro Station in Toshima, Tokyo, there are pockets of moments when time seems to unfurl like strands on a ball of string.
Events could be compacted and concentrated in a single location, with those who view from the outside perceiving that nothing moves at all. Harajuku is encapsulated in its own time, a part of Tokyo displaying attitude, the fervour of youth culture and the eccentric.
A stuffed gorilla on the roof? Gothic dresses with sequins or should one wish to wear three layers of socks on each foot – a normal mono-coloured pair topped by two sheer blinged-out pairs?
The flashy style is unlike those commonly found in Malaysian magazines, save those influenced by Japanese culture.
Thronged by students and the casual tourists, the hub of trends is alive with happenings – be it in outfits, popular culture or people.
Across the Harajuku station is Yoyogi Park, standing in all its calm and tranquillity.
With towering trees and a looming torii gate welcoming guests at the entrance, the pace of time moves differently here.
Take the train to the next stop and the atmosphere can be vastly different. Attractions and explorations lay sprawled in a concentrated area.
Different hubs of Tokyo can be encapsulated in their own aspects of time.
Akihabara seems like a place of escapism, devoid of the passage of time. Darkened alleys are contrasted by neon signs announcing the latest game to be released in the market.
Scantily clad two-dimensional characters are a common sight at doors, announcing they’ve a healthy stock of AVS.
A world for the otaku culture such as Gundams, Maid Cafes and games, Akihabara brings visitors to a terrain dominated by large robots and values such as loyalty and subservience that are not easily found on the common streets.
To counter the masculine Akihabara is a road in Ikebukuro known as the Otome Road, with clear display of the kawaii, the feminine and the pretty.
Akihabara is different from Shibuya which flourishes like a fashion capital, with the beats of pop and club hits playing like a theme song in the background.
It was a promise to visit Japan, especially after the earthquake in 2011 that elicited a 15-metre tsunami, which collided with three Fukushima Daiichi reactors.
As a child who grew up in the 1990s, at the time of Tun Dr Mahathir’s Look East policy, Japan as an industrial partner brought their culture closer to Malaysians.
Much like the penetration of the Korean culture in today’s market, Japan was on the airwaves, on television and very much a part of our lives through the import of Japanese brands.
That, coupled with the influence of their manga such as Sailormoon and Rurouni Kenshin, were big influences in my formative years.
Japanese literature which explores the corrupt side of humans, and accepting that nature is inherent, is different from the clear division of black versus white found in other ideals.
Japan became a surrogate parent in developing the values I embrace today.
It was the celebration of my turning 25, and I figured a return to Japan might provide perspective necessary to prepare me for the future.
Today’s Japan is a modern-day Japan versus one that is steeped in history. Practices of the past exist in places such as Asakusa and various shrines preserved in the city.
Despite the throng of visitors at Nakamise shopping street, Sensoji Temple at Asakusa is still appreciated by those who make the journey to pray.
To talk about change is to suggest a flow of time, and the changes in Japan since my first visit in 2000 is mostly in the growth of Englishspeaking locals in the service sector.
I recall a moment when I wanted to buy a bag from a boutique. Despite the lack of understanding, the sales person still smiled and waited as I scrolled through my phone for the translation app.
Communication is rarely a large problem if both parties have the patience to understand each other.
Tokyo is a place where the old mingles with the new such as the glass of modern tall buildings harmonising with the vivid green of trees ... a place that holds warm memories for me.