A perpetual classic
The turtleneck is back as an essential style piece.
THE roll neck, turtleneck, polo neck – whatever you choose to call it – is a versatile addition to your style arsenal.
It’s now making a massive comeback in men’s fashion, emerging as a casual and comfortable alternative to a shirt.
This is because the turtleneck is also perfect for layering under a suit jacket, as fashion expert Gerd Mueller-Thomkins points out.
The combination of a turtleneck and a suit “is interesting because it is a contrast of two different things,” Mueller-Thomkins says. The suit is formal, formal while the turtleneck is casual.
“Knitted clothing is flexible and moves with the body shape, which gives a certain dynamic to the knit look.”
In fact, the turtleneck originated in the world of sport, and even sailors used to rely on the warm sweater as protection against the wind and sea.
The minimalist turtleneck is also popular with bohemian hedonists and intellectuals. “Turtlenecks have always been worn by creatives, it’s a non-conformist item of clothing,” says Mueller-Thomkins. It’s simple, honest and authentic, and if you wear one, a scarf or tie is not required. That’s why “minimalism” is the turtleneck’s key characteristic, argues Mueller-Thomkins. “When you wear a scarf or a tie, your look as a whole becomes much more affluent.”
While the turtleneck has not been a trend piece in recent years, the current designer collections are full of high necklines.
“The turtleneck is back with a vengeance”, as Andre Bangert from trade weekly Textilw wirtschaft observes.
The designs are varied: the neckline can be rolled or standing, close-fitting or loose-fitting, with cords, zips or buttons.
What you wear it with is also up to you: it goes with a suit, a blazer, a shirt or layered with a V-neck.
“The stand-up collar is a great alternative if you do not want to have a lot of fabric in the neck area,” says Bang ert. Some turtlenecks are morre casual and are more suited to leisure activities.
These include modelsm made from lightweight knit or with a lower neckline.
The material is also important: “Cashmere or alpaca is more premium, while wool or cotton is more sporty,” explains designer Rene Lang.
While the classic remains the black, tight-fitting variant, other colours are becoming more acceptable. Bangert proposes models in mustard yellow or brown tones for cool sunny weather.
“You can try out colours that would never be suitable for a shirt.”
“The turtleneck is a cross between a T-shirt and a shirt,” he adds. Designers are currently using the turtleneck to make suits and blazers more modern.
“It signals something mysterious,” says Bangert. And it fits the slim silhouette that is dominating men’s fashion right now.
For a really “informed” look, as Bangert describes it, the fashion expert recommends the following combination: “Casual trousers with tapered legs and a high waist, teamed with an extra slim-fitting turtleneck – this will create a super modern silhouette.”
A completely slim-fit look is no longer on trend, explains Lang. So don’t wear your turtleneck with a pair of skinny jeans.
The golden rule, however, is that you have to actually like the turtleneck. It’s not something for everyone. The tight-fitting form is not always particularly flattering. In addition, beards create their own issues.
“A stubbly chin can catch on the turtleneck’s collar, causing it to pill,” explains Lang. On the plus side, turtlenecks elegantly conceal a double chin or wrinkles in the neck area.
Lang believes, however, that the turtleneck still needs something to achieve a proper breakthrough with the masses.
“At the moment it’s still looked as something a bit odd and quirky,” he says. – dpa