Layering it right
Make-up advice for choosing the right foundation.
IN the world of cosmetics, foundation is the equivalent of a base layer of paint on a picture canvas. A visit to the cosmetics section in any store will reveal a huge array of foundation products on offer.
They include matte, shimmering “glow” foundation or versions to match the wearer’s skin tone. It’s no surprise then that picking the right foundation to wear can lead to confusion.
Begin the task of choosing a foundation by working out your skin type. “Dry skin will need a very different texture than mixed skin,” says make-up artist Peter Arnheim. “Fluid foundation with a high level of moisture is best for dry skin.” It’s a completely different matter when it comes to greasy skin.
“This type of skin loves light, powdered and oil-free foundation,” says make-up expert Peter Schmiedinger. “Because mixed skin tends to be very individual with both dry and greasy parts, the dry parts can usually be covered with a cream foundation.”
Skin tone is the second thing to take into consideration. “The foundation you choose should look completely natural,” says Arnheim.
“That is why it’s important to test it on a small area that matches the face’s skin tone most.” Two points of the body come into question for that: the inside of the arm and area between the throat and sternum. It’s essential to perform the test in daylight.
Along with skin tone and type the next question to answer is what type of skin structure do you have? Does your skin have fine lines and wrinkles, red areas or broken veins? In those cases you might need a foundation with more coverage.
Youthful skin with small pores, on the other hand, will often make do with just a toned day cream. Peter Schmiedinger describes the ideal foundation product: “A foundation is perfect when it gives you a youthful glow, lifts the skin optically and at the same time improves elasticity.”
Foundation also needs to be applied properly to the skin for it to achieve its best effect. “It makes more sense not to apply foundation with the fingers but with a small sponge,” says make-up artist Ricarda Zill.
“That way you will be able to soften the contrast between transitions and make the foundation almost invisible.”
If you use day cream wait at least 15 minutes before applying foundation. The cream must be completely absorbed by the skin before foundation can come into play. Otherwise the foundation will “float” on the skin.
“Make-up will last longer if a base cosmetic is applied first to the skin,” explains Zill. “It will smooth the skin’s structure, fill pores and generally make skin appear finer.”
In the past there used to one golden rule for foundation: always use powder after foundation. That rule no longer applies.
“If you use a matte foundation you don’t need to put powder on as well,” explains Arnheim. The same applies when using two different types of foundation on mixed skin. – dpa