Thanks, yogurt
FROM afar, Mont St Michel looked like a pile of brown earth. But it was an “Oh. My. God.” moment as the bus rolled towards this World Heritage Site.
The medieval monastery is perfectly balanced on a rocky island and the first thought that went through my head was: How did they get it up there?
The Japanese were the first Asian tourists to make their way to this amazing island monastery thanks to a yogurt advertisement shot here – yes, you read that right. It was not clear whether the yogurt was a market success but it was a Eureka! moment for travel-hungry Japanese.
Only a few monks still live in the monastery but three million tourists throng the site every year.
One walks up a sloping cobbled path lined with shops selling souvenirs that seem to call out to us, buy me, buy me! Then it is another 300 steps to the top where the pinnacle is marked by a golden statue of Michael the Archangel holding a sword in one hand and a dragon that looks like a big lizard in the other.
The colourful story is that the Archangel appeared to the local bishop and commanded him to build the monastery. The bishop dragged his feet until the Archangel appeared again and burned a hole in his forehead. That really got the man going.
Mont St Michel was popular among Christian pilgrims during the earlier centuries and a large number of them died attempting to walk from the mainland to the island.
A sandy beach connects the island to the mainland during low tide. But this area is known for having the highest tides in the world. Locals say the sea water can rise as high as 15m at the pace of “a galloping horse” while at low tide, the sea recedes as far as 18km.
The pilgrims who survived would likely end up at the inn run by Madam Poulard for her omelettes made with famous Normandy butter and cream. The original shop is still standing, or so they claim.
We had no time for omelettes because we wanted to catch the sunset at the abbey. It is quite an awesome structure rising high on top of the rocky island – it must have helped them feel closer to heaven.
The church was a powerful institution in those days and such man-defying architecture were symbols of the church’s political power, wealth and influence.
Anyway, all those dead monks must have gone straight to heaven for living here where there was no heating in winter.
The sky turns pink and golden at sunset and from inside the cathedral, it is like a burst of gold radiating through the door. One almost expects good old Michael the Archangel to come gliding in but it is just more tourists streaming in to take selfies. – Joceline Tan