The Star Malaysia - Star2

Treasure trove of regional flavours

The Majapahit offers a solid repertoire of classic dishes from the South-East Asian region, with a focus on Thai and Indonesian cuisine.

- By ABIRAMI DURAI star2@thestar.com.my

BEFORE I even make it to The Majapahit, I am already in a sour, snarly mood. Parking at the spanking new Arcoris Mont’Kiara (where The Majapahit is housed) is difficult to navigate and having inadverten­tly exited the same carpark twice without finding a place to park, I re-entered the carpark a third time only to have the same po-faced security guard shout violently at me (his exact words were “I’m security here, I tell you where to park!”) before directing me to a carpark bay I had gone past a million times because it was marked ‘Reserved’.

Needless to say, I am not a happy camper.

But as soon as I walk into The Majapahit, that wary, unsettling feeling dissipates. The Majapahit is a high-ceilinged beauty with foliage scattered throughout. There are even plants suspended in planter boxes high up near the ceiling! Low rattan-backed chairs complete this laidback yet chic tableau and you’ll find yourself leaning back and easily forgetting all the travails of the day.

The eatery has only been around for a few months but is already gaining traction for its selection of South-East Asian cuisine, gleaned predominan­tly from Thailand and Indonesia, with a sprinkling of Malaysian and Vietnamese cuisine to round things off.

“Although it’s a South-East Asian restaurant, we mainly serve Thai and Indonesian food. What we realise is that there are a lot of Thai restaurant­s here but not many people know about Indonesian food. So when people come, they get to enjoy both. But we do have other South-East Asian food from Malaysia and Vietnam as well. Hence the name Majapahit because Majapahit was once a kingdom in South-East Asia, so we’re covering the food served in those areas,” says Nelson How, the restaurant’s marketing manager.

The kitchen is helmed by Indonesian chef Pak Isan Santibi, a seasoned veteran who is wellversed in Indonesian cuisine and also served at Thai restaurant Ginger, where he picked up a litany of Thai recipes. Many things on the menu are ideal for sharing among friends, and you’d do well to start with the Satay of South-East Asia platter (RM52 for a regular portion). The meal features Balinese fish satay, Malaysian chicken satay, Indonesian beef satay and Vietnamese sugarcane prawn with unique homemade dipping sauces. Of these, the Malaysian chicken satay is a clear winner – tender and succulent, with a sumptuous, sweet peanut sauce. The Balinese fish satay is also delightful – plump and packed with flavour with a light, tangy sauce to complement the assemblage.

Then there is the Curry Galore (RM52), another cleverly designed sharing platter perfect for curry aficionado­s. With the platter, you’ll find a motley crew in the ilk of Thai red and green curry, Indonesian squid curry and Malaysian prawn curry served with chapati bread and cassava crackers. All the curries are made to order from homemade curry pastes. The curries are delicious – most notably the slightly sweet squid curry swimming with chunks of tender, pliable cephalopod and the Thai green curry, a comforting favourite done to perfection here, with just the right amount of heat. While the cassava crackers are delightful­ly crunchy and tasty, I’m not sure they’re ideal for mopping up the curries as they tend to get sodden and leaden every time you plunge them into the curry’s watery depths. In lieu of that, I would recommend that you eat the curries on their own or pair them with the much hardier chapatis on offer instead.

For an even more filling sharing platter, definitely, definitely indulge in the The Maha Rice Royale (RM48), which encompasse­s Thai pineapple fried rice, Thai fried rice, Indonesian fried rice and Malaysian kampung fried rice. It’s difficult to pick a favourite here because the entire platter is delightful – the kampung fried rice is as good a rendition as you’re going to find anywhere – spicy with crunchy shards of ikan bilis thrown in, while the pineapple fried rice features bursts of zesty pineapple, cashewnuts and other bedfellows that serve to elevate the rice. The Indonesian fried rice originates from Bandung and has sly spicy undertones while the Thai fried rice has a herbaceous underbelly and a slight fieriness. Although portions are plentiful, this platter is such a winner that you’re likely to hoard it closely to your person, warding off the trespassin­g spoons of your friends with vicious “I dare you!” stares.

If you’re looking for stand-alone dishes to sample, definitely order the coconut butter chicken (RM25), a play on creamy butter chicken. Here, the deep-fried chicken is smothered in a sauce made of butter, margarine, cream and coconut milk in what proves to be a delicous, slightly coconut-ey coupling. Be sure to eat this when it’s hot though, as the sauce seizes up once it’s cold and is decidedly less appetising.

On a cold day (or simply a long one) you could opt for a warm pot of Spicy Seafood Tom Yam (RM32). Filled with prawns, squid and fish, the soup is satisfying­ly spicy without endeavouri­ng to assasinate your taste buds. You might find though that while the sweet-sour balance here is good, the flavours could be more robust, as they are a little understate­d at the moment.

End your meal at The Majapahit with the crowd favourite Vietnamese drip coffee (RM12). Stir the tar-black coffee which already has a layer of condensed milk in the base of the cup and you’ll find a soothing, lightly sweet beverage guaranteed to ease frayed nerves and soothe your senses into a state of blissed-out contentmen­t.

How says that while The Majapahit will remain a standalone restaurant, there are now plans to forge ahead with a spin-off restaurant called Gajah Mada which will epitomise the same cuisine ideals as The Majapahit.

“The first eatery is planned in MyTown KL – it will be a full restaurant, it’s just that we will price the food lower than The Majapahit,” he says.

 ?? — Photos: YAP CHEE HONG/The Star ?? Chic and comfortabl­e, the restaurant exudes character and warmth.
— Photos: YAP CHEE HONG/The Star Chic and comfortabl­e, the restaurant exudes character and warmth.
 ??  ?? Leave some space in your belly for the fried rice platter, which is incredibly satisfying.
Leave some space in your belly for the fried rice platter, which is incredibly satisfying.
 ??  ?? How (left) and Isan are part of the team behind The Majapahit’s thoughtful­ly curated South-East Asian food.
How (left) and Isan are part of the team behind The Majapahit’s thoughtful­ly curated South-East Asian food.
 ??  ?? If you’re a curry fiend, you’ll love the curry platter.
If you’re a curry fiend, you’ll love the curry platter.
 ??  ?? Enjoy various meat skewers and unique dipping sauces with the Satay of South-East Asia platter.
Enjoy various meat skewers and unique dipping sauces with the Satay of South-East Asia platter.
 ??  ?? Creamy and rich with slight coconut nuances, the coconut butter chicken is delicious when eaten hot.
Creamy and rich with slight coconut nuances, the coconut butter chicken is delicious when eaten hot.
 ??  ?? The Vietnamese drip coffee offers a soothing, satisfacto­ry end to a meal.
The Vietnamese drip coffee offers a soothing, satisfacto­ry end to a meal.

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