Michelin-starred Chinese food
This Malaysian edition of Hong Kong’s acclaimed eatery serves up delectable upmarket Cantonese fare.
AT first glance, there is little to distinguish Xin Dau Ji from the rest of the Chinese banquet-style restaurants ubiquitous throughout the Klang Valley.
But if you’ve: a) done your research, or, b) are familiar with restaurants listed in the Michelin Guide, you’ll have sussed out that the eatery has its roots in a Hong Kong restaurant that earned a Michelin star in 2012 – a star that it has retained to date. The original restaurant’s popularity is built on the back of its authentic traditional Cantonese fare and seafood offerings.
The Malaysian offshoot is managed by Duke Dinings Sdn Bhd, a wholly owned subsidiary under Ekovest Bhd (which owns Ekocheras Mall, where the restaurant is located in Kuala Lumpur). According to the restaurant’s assistant general manager Chua Tien Jiun, every effort has been made to preserve the integrity of the food according to the exacting standards of the Hong Kong eatery.
“We have two head chefs who are from the original restaurant, so they are familiar with the food. And we try to replicate the dishes as much as we can, unless there are ingredient constraints that we cannot overcome. But basically 70% to 80% of the food is exactly the same as what you will find in the Hong Kong outlet,” he says.
The restaurant has also ensured that the recipes remain true to their Hong Kong lineage, with little deviation to cater for finicky Malaysian palates. As a result, unlike most local Chinese restaurants, Xin Dau Ji does not serve the de rigeur garlic, cut chillies and soy sauce – the condiments of choice for most diners.
Wait times might seem long-ish here but that’s likely because the chefs make everything from scratch and take great pains to churn out the best possible versions of each dish.
Opt to start your meal here with the sweet and sour spare ribs (RM48). While this is an oft-repeated dish that can be found in any Chinese restaurant worth it’s salt, Xin Dau Ji’s rendition is faultless.
Here, a crispy outer layer yields to an inner core that is tender with a layer of fat enhancing this pliability. The sauce that coats the meat forms a thin shield that is far removed from the overly sweet gloopy sauce prevalent in most eateries.
Next up, expect to loosen those purse strings if you’re looking to indulge in the stir-fried Australian scallops (RM98). The emphasis is on the purity of the scallops, which have been cooked so perfectly that each one still bears a translucent heart, while retaining a plump, pliable mouthfeel.
The steamed fish (market price) is very fresh, but there is nothing extraordinary about this creation – certainly nothing that is likely to
leave any form of a lingering impression.
The same cannot be said about the steamed rice with egg white, garlic, ginger and crab (RM168 for 700gm). The highlight of this meal is the crabs, which feature generous tufts of sweet, tender meat redolent of the flavours of the sea.
The restaurant’s lobster platter (market price) makes full use of this glorious crustacean. Here, the lobster is ably portioned into bite-sized pieces, which are then placed on a deep-fried wanton receptacle that also holds corn, peppers and spring onions. It is a simple juxtaposition of different ingredients designed to elevate the lobster to its fullest potential.
The only downside is the wanton cups, which are not crispy and as a result, seem a little soggy and lacklustre.
The salt and pepper mantis prawn with fried garlic (market price) features humongous mantis prawns blanketed under an army of perfectly fried crispy garlic. The fried garlic caps the natural attributes of the plump, tender prawns in what proves to be a spectacular marriage of flavours and textures.
Perhaps the best thing at Xin Dau Ji at the moment is the roasted goose (RM328 whole, RM168 half ). This is a fowl worth clucking over and then some. This goose is the dictionary definition of the word “perfect”. Here, burnished, brittle skin yields with no hesitation at all to a layer of rendered fat that segues delightfully into juicy, succulent meat. The hedonistic quality of this meal is evident from the very first mouthful when your eyes widen and heart rate picks up as an involuntary sigh escapes after you’ve allowed this masterpiece to glide gracefully down your throat.
Xin Dau Ji also does a range of dim sum. You might want to try the egg tarts (RM12) which has crumbly pastry and an eggy filling that straddles the sweet-savoury divide with aplomb and skill.
Xin Dau Ji is clearly hoping to prove itself as victorious as its Hong Kong namesake, with a string of budget-busting options designed to tantalise local diners. While there are some creations that could do with more curation, the bulk of the menu offers decadence at is finest.
And that goose alone will fulfil all those Michelin-starred expectations and then some.