A memorable visit to the Land of a Thousand Handshakes
THE Covid-19 pandemic certainly put a stop to the world’s travel plans in the first half of the year. Well, while we wait for international travel to open up again, and now that domestic travel is allowed, we can take this time to explore the beauty of our own country and see what Malaysia truly has to offer. Plus, supporting domestic travel is also a great way to help revive the tourism industry which has suffered a severe setback.
As we dream and plan ahead for future travels, I for one can’t help but reminisce about one of my most memorable experiences: a visit to the mesmerising Kelabit Highlands. Located high up at an altitude of over 1,000m above sea level, the Kelabit Highlands are nestled in the north-eastern corner of Sarawak. Home to the Kelabit people, one of the minority Orang Ulu tribes in the state, it is also fondly known as the “Land of a Thousand Handshakes” because the friendly locals will greet you with much warmth and hospitality.
The Kelabit Highlands are listed as one of the top 10 experiences in South-east Asia. To some, it is a place where one goes to escape the world, and where time slows down; to others, it is an “Eden of Southeast Asia” and a must-visit if one is ever in Borneo. For me, it was a downright humbling and truly authentic experience.
Apart from the hospitality of the people, the uniqueness of this place is truly intriguing. The ancient stone megaliths that dot the highlands erected by the Kelabit people include the popular Batu Ritong in Pa Lungan, which is said to be a burial site. There is also Batuh Narit, meaning boulders carved to show human or animal figures and symbols; Batuh Nangan, which refers to stone tables or slab-built structures; and Lungun Batuh, meaning stone coffin. Batuh Senuped are erected stones and Perupun are stone mounds. Some of the earliest stone mounds were constructed about 2,500 years ago.
My three-night stay in the highlands gave me enough time to explore the two main villages, Bario and Ba’kelalan. Charming homestays offered clean, comfortable rooms that were authentically rustic, as well as full board meals.
As a city girl, the aspect of the trip I enjoyed the most was the tranquillity and calmness of these highlands. I was able to disconnect and immerse myself in nature and the culture of the place. Among the experiences you shouldn’t miss are the trekking and mountain biking trails in Bario village and visits to Prayer Mountain, the Pineapple Farm and the Bario Salt Factory. The fresh air and cool weather were wonderfully rejuvenating – and rather hard to forget. After tiring my body out with trekking and cycling, I headed to Ba’kelalan, Bario’s sister village, for the therapeutic hot springs. Located deep in the rainforest, the Merarap Hot Springs is only accessible via 4WD. There I was able to enjoy several hot spring pools at different temperatures as I kicked back and enjoyed a cold drink. Look no further for a scenic view as this village also has ethereal waterfalls, the two main ones being Ritan and Pa Kumap waterfalls.
I was informed that the end of July or early August, when the Pesta Nukenen, or the Bario Food Festival, takes place is one of the best times to visit. This is when you would be able to get a taste of the highlands with everything from wild game and fish, organic fruits and vegetables to herbs and spices from the jungle on offer.
As a hard core foodie, I made it a point to try the local food and signature dishes. There was the Nuba Laya, which is made of pounded rice wrapped in itip leaves (paddle-like leaves), pickled fish or game meat called telu, as well as the famous Ba’kelalan rice coffee. Fresh and juicy local fruits such as sweet pineapples are available, as well as strawberries and apples!
I can’t say enough about my adventure in this amazing gem of a place. It was certainly worth the wait to get a seat on the Maswings 16-seat Twin Otter airplane. I will definitely go back!