Down by the river
IN the lobby of a time-honoured grand hotel in Switzerland, people in dripping wet swimwear and flipflops would usually draw shocked glances. Not so in Basel where it’s perfectly normal for the concierge at the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois to ask if you had a refreshing swim in the Rhine river.
In the Swiss city, people in bikinis and swimming shorts are part of the picture in summer, when Basel, known for its art museums, is transformed into an urban swimming pool.
Even in one of Europe’s oldest city hotels, guests are encouraged to do the same as the locals: Take your “Wickelfisch” swim bag to the office and go for a dip in the Rhine afterwards, says the concierge.
The Wickelfisch is a waterproof swim bag in which you can stow your clothes so they don’t get wet. Thanks to the air that gets sealed in, it also functions as a buoyancy aid. The bag comes in countless shapes and colours.
On hot summer days, you can see the people of Basel make a pilgrimage with their swim bag along the right bank of the Rhine, which they affectionately call “Bach” – stream – here.
In the glistening sunlight, the river sparkles in turquoise blue and emerald green. Information boards mark the ideal entry point at the river bend just before the Black Forest Bridge. This is where the collective striptease begins, with people tearing off their suits, dresses and shoes so they can finally plunge into the gently sloping riverbed.
The water of the Rhine is around 20°C in summer, or even 25°C in hot years. Athletes swim against the current, but most simply let themselves drift and enjoy the view.
On the right bank is the Kleinbasel district with its villas, on the left is Grossbasel, where the red sandstone cathedral towers over the old town’s maze of alleyways.
However, you shouldn’t attempt to swim across – it’s far too dangerous because of the strong current and the large cargo ships.
Behind the Middle Bridge, most climb out of the water using the steps on the waterfront. This is also the perfect spot for an aperitif. The banks of the Rhine are lined with bars, cafes and restaurants – from simple taverns to traditional pubs such as the Gasthof zum Goldenen Sternen and gourmet temples like the three-star Cheval Blanc.
A little further east in Zurich, the Limmat river flows through the middle of the old town. However, swimming is only allowed in certain areas, the so-called “badis”. Only once a year are the people of Zurich allowed to drift through their old town during the Limmat Swim in August.
Thanks to the ever growing number hotels on Lake Zurich, reachable from the city via liner boats, the Swiss banking metropolis has become a true holiday destination for water enthusiasts. There are also several large swimming spots along the Limmat.
Bern doesn’t have that many bathing areas. That being said, they are all free, plus the Aare river flowing through the Swiss capital is also freely accessible. A popular swim among the locals, the “Aareschwumm” begins outside of the city centre at the Eichholz campsite. From there you float back towards the city centre with a view of the Bundeshaus government building’s dome.
The river, fed by glacier water, rarely has a temperature above 18°C. For local journalist Laura Fehlmann, that’s warm. A founding member of a local club of Aare enthusiasts, she even goes swimming in the river in winter.
While that might not be a problem for accomplished swimmers like her, everyone else is better advise to take a dip during the summer months.