Eye on style
The Islamic Fashion Festival made its debut in Manila with runway looks that ranged from classic to quirky.
IN the urban area of Makati, Manila’s central business district and shopping haven, some of the female shoppers wore outfits that could raise eyebrows.
It was quite a contrast to the scene in the ballroom of a hotel in Makati, where there were distinct guidelines being observed for dressing. The Islamic Fashion Festival (IFF) was being held in Manila for the first time (it’s also the curtain raiser for the series this year) and it was an eye-opener for the predominantly Filipino audience.
It was an audience that included high-profile representatives from the illustrious and powerful business-political families of Cojuangco, Magsaysay and Marcos. Even former Philippines president Fidel Ramos was present!
On the Malaysian front, there were the Raja Puan Muda Perak Raja Nor Mahani Raja Shahar Shah, Malaysian Tourism Minister Datuk Seri Dr Ng Yen Yen (who officiated the dinner, representing the Prime Minister’s wife Datin Seri Rosmah Mansor who had to cancel at the last minute), the Malaysian Ambassador to the Philippines, Datuk Seri Dr Ibrahim Saad, and his wife. Of course, the IFF founder and chairman Datuk Raja Rezza Shah was also present. As Raja Rezza noted, the mission of IFF remained the same, namely to show the world that Islam was not about terrorism and extremism but about peace, moderation and goodwill. “You can show that through fashion and that even though there are guidelines for our dressing, it doesn’t mean wearing a sack; the clothes can also be beautiful and contemporary.”
The theme for the night (and a lunch show the next day hosted by Tourism Malaysia) was Discover The Beauty Of Modesty.
“I am so happy with the reception and also the hard work done by our Filipino friends on the Manila committee. Although all of them are staunch Catholics and high-profile society figures, they were very receptive to the idea and principles behind the IFF and embraced them enthusiastically,” said Raja Rezza.
Emcees for the gala charity dinner were Malaysia’s celebrity host/model/actress Bernie Chan, Filipino host/personality Marc Nelson, and fellow countryman and veteran host RJ Ledesma. During intervals, guests were entertained by Stephen Rahman-hughes, Malaysia’s musical theatre singing sensation.
Many were watching out for how the three Filipino designers would fare. One of the more anticipated showings was by JC Buendia, who is often known as a presidential designer.
Among his illustrious clients are former president Gloria Arroyo and current president Benigno Aquino (whom Buendia dressed for his inauguration and his TIME magazine cover).
Buendia did not disappoint with his power suits and dresses, which were featured in monochrome and shades in between. The cuts were superb and despite the lack of colour, they were all strong statement pieces.
“I like the idea of modesty. I really think there is a time and trend to not just ‘show’ liberally but to highlight the dress itself and not the body. This collection is
something that would translate anywhere and it’s about empowering women.
“This is my first time doing something like this and I was given guidelines on what was appropriate. But I also wanted to retain my signature, and the colours are also something that is very me,” said Buendia.
His designs were inspired by style icons Jackie Kennedy and Princess Diana who were certainly powerful women in their own right. Buendia’s was one of my favourite showcases for the night, for sure.
For emerging Filipino designer Veejay Floresca, his clientele is the younger set aged between 18 and 30. While his use of digital prints was arresting (he said they were based on a series of paintings he had seen at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum), his designs did not quite fit into the concept of Islamic dressing. The main problem was that they were too figure-hugging; he could have employed the layering technique to get around this.
The final Filipino in the mix was Jun Escario (who was not present that night), another sought-after designer who delighted the audience with his glamorous, shimmering gowns. He used beadwork on the necklines and cuffs to enhance the outfits.
The other non-malaysian was Milo Migliavacca; the Bali-based Italian designer is now known as the Original Prince Of Batik Couture. His colourful batik interpretations were also well-received; the gradations of colour with batik overprints certainly made for stunning pieces on both men and women. He also used a lot of animal prints.
“I was inspired by the film Avatar. I’ve been showing at IFF for at least four years now, and even though I’m not Muslim, I know the guidelines involved. I’m happy that I am given a chance ... I don’t especially create something with a Muslim client in mind. What I have are pieces that can come together, and be mixed and matched to fit in with the guidelines,” enthused Migliavacca.
The Malaysians impressed, too, with Datuk Tom Abang Saufi leading the way with her colourful, joyful and flowing resort wear. Big peony motifs were the running theme besides the liberal use of colour.
The use of Whitney Houston’s songs to accompany the models was a masterstroke, and also made it current.
“I decided on Whitney as a tribute. Also, because the audience was probably expecting some Arabian music, I wanted to show them Islamic fashion is not about being sombre but can also be fun,” said Tom after the show.
Syaiful Baharim must have piqued the interest of many that night. His elaborate voluminous gowns that employed many techniques including wraps and folds, and different fabrics and textures, were also very detailed.
“It’s my fourth time and I wanted to give a European feel to the clothes and make it luxurious and glamorous. Islamic fashion does not have to be boring,” said Syaiful.
The final designer was Melinda Looi who, after years of participation, got her Islamic fashion credentials down pat. The pastel colours, the use of silk chiffon, her signature embroidery and her favourite French lace played to her strengths.
And everyone did their interpretations of the headgear to awesome effect, which threatened to overshadow the clothes at times.
There was also a selection of men’s outfits from Ya Jameel Homme, a store concept initiated by Raja Rezza to bring in various Muslim-appropriate attire from around the world.
The event brought appreciation and understanding of the concept of Islamic fashion. So it was a mission that succeeded quite well in fulfilling its overall objectives.