The bitter truth behind marzipan
Lbeck: Germans believe no Christmas is complete without marzipan, the mouth-watering treat made of sugar and crushed almonds that dates back to the Middle Ages.
But market pressures are driving innovation of the beloved holiday tradition – not least in Luebeck, the charming port city in northern Germany that is arguably the world capital of marzipan.
Marzipan “has a frumpy, slightly dowdy image”, said Janine Judetzki, a spokesman for the German marzipan firm Lemke.
“We are anxious to make the image a bit younger and also cater to other target groups.”
The delicacy was, according to Luebeck lore, invented in the 15th century and has been savoured by Prussian emperors and praised by cherished writers such as local son Thomas Mann, whose visage carved in marzipan can be seen at a museum on the city’s high street.
However, the rising price of almonds has also put a strain on the venerable family businesses that make the product, several of which have gone bankrupt in the past few years.
The Luebeck firm Niederegger, founded in 1806, is one of the oldest German candy companies and occupies a central place in the city, where its products are sold on seemingly every corner.
Part of marzipan’s charm is that it can be formed into countless shapes such as snowmen, Christmas trees and pigs. The industry is in the process of widening the variety further in order to remain competitive.
Two years ago, Niederegger launched a successful line of marzi- pan for men called “Man Stuff ” in which the marzipan is tinged with “bitter” flavours like cashews and whiskey and comes in virile packaging like toolboxes.
The company even installed a 3-D printer to make little marzipan figures in its packed store in downtown Luebeck, though the machine cannot replicate the delicate shapes crafted in the factory, where replicas of fruit and animals are handmade to order.
Niederegger hopes that such changes may help expand its sales, 60% of which occur around Christmas.
But rising costs of nuts have made work difficult.
“The hazelnut industry and almond industry have both been suffering,” food specialist Marcia Mogelonsky said. — AFP