Past meets present

O Bulgaria’s capital Sofia offers thermal baths, Roman ruins and plenty of Soviet charm

SOFIA straddles two cultures, embracing both the rustic, nostalgic charm of eastern Europe and the relaxed atmosphere of southern Europe. Even though Sofia is Bulgaria’s capital, it gets little attention compared to the coastal cities of Burgas and Varna.

The capital is a melting pot of the past and present, with influences from the Romans, the Ottomans and the Soviets over many eras. The city is rich in history, but not in a boastful or intrusive way.

Sofia is one of the few European capitals not on a waterfront, neither a major river nor a sea. But it does have thermal mineral springs.

Those underground hot springs were the reason why the Romans built a city here, far from waterways.

The mineral springs are still bubbling in the city, accessible to all, with locals filling large canisters with mineral water.

But there’s another reason for residents walking through the city with water jugs: Bulgaria is the poorest EU country, a fact not to be overlooked, as fine dining and hotel rooms are considerably cheaper here than in western Europe.

Sofia is full of little pitfalls: crooked stones, potholes and protruding metal pieces turn a walk into an inner-city obstacle course. But the bumpy sidewalks somehow match the city’s underdog image. You have to like it as it is: cheeky, old, colourful.

Those who frequently look down to avoid tripping will notice the small, colourful, half-height shops in some streets. These so-called knee shops are remnants from the Communist era, with shoemakers, kiosks and booksellers offering their services from the basements.

From almost everywhere in Sofia, the Vitosha Mountains radiate a sublime tranquillity towards the city. The foothills reach as far as the city highway, and the wide mountain slopes and steep climbs are only half an hour by public transport from the city centre.

Visit the Aleksandar Nevsky Cathedral, with its shining gold domes, shortly before the doors close at 7pm. You can take in the heavy, velvety atmosphere with few others around.

Sofia is not only the centre of the predominant Bulgarian Orthodox religion, but the city centre is a shrine to religious tolerance.

The square framed by the Banya Bashi Mosque, the Orthodox St Nedelya Church, the Sofia synagogue, and the Catholic St Joseph cathedral is emblematic of the diverse people of which Sofia is very proud. – dpa