South Amer­i­can Fuego

Time Out Malaysia Visitors Guide - - KL & SURROUNDS -

Troika Sky Din­ing, Level 23A, The Troika, 19 Per­siaran KLCC, KL (+603 2162 0886/www.troikasky­din­ing.com). Named af­ter the Span­ish word for ‘fire’, Fuego claims to fo­cus on South Amer­i­can flavours. Most dishes are pre­sented with a great sense of the­atre, such as the smoked snails in a jar, grilled wa­ter­melon with fried hal­loumi, smoked quail eggs, and salted cod cro­quettes. Smok­ing is a heav­ily used tech­nique here, and man­ager Rick Joore ac­knowl­edges Fuego’s bias to­wards flamed, grilled and smoked tones. The chaos is di­alled down in the mains, in which large slabs of grilled beef cuts or chicken are thrown on to wooden boards next to minia­ture jars of sauces. And if your sweet tooth so de­sires it, chur­ros with salted caramel es­puma are ever so present on the menu. It’s also worth men­tion­ing that Fuego em­ploys a team of gua­camole chefs – headed by a se­ri­ous white-jack­eted bloke who makes gua­camole all night. It’s not sur­pris­ing then that the gua­camole en­tries alone take the hum­ble av­o­cado to rock star lev­els. Be­sides the clas­sic it­er­a­tion, there’s one with salmon roe, a spicy version with cili padi, and a favourite of ours: gua­camole with an­chovies, sun­dried toma­toes and pre­served le­mons. Fuego’s clincher is un­doubt­edly the space in which it sits. The sky-high floor of a KL build­ing never be­fore pro­vided a view of the Twin Tow­ers as re­splen­dent as this one – whether at sun­set or af­ter hours, the view is a sparkling panorama. Mean­while, none of the grandios­ity of Can­taloupe or Claret Wine Bar is present at Fuego; it’s a wild­card Troika Sky Din­ing project for the every­man. For proof, soak in the eclec­tic Talav­erastyle tiles, breezy al­fresco vibe and ca­sual can­teen-style benches on a week­night. Al­most al­ways fully booked, call and make a reser­va­tion a week ear­lier to be safe.

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