South American Fuego
Troika Sky Dining, Level 23A, The Troika, 19 Persiaran KLCC, KL (+603 2162 0886/www.troikaskydining.com). Named after the Spanish word for ‘fire’, Fuego claims to focus on South American flavours. Most dishes are presented with a great sense of theatre, such as the smoked snails in a jar, grilled watermelon with fried halloumi, smoked quail eggs, and salted cod croquettes. Smoking is a heavily used technique here, and manager Rick Joore acknowledges Fuego’s bias towards flamed, grilled and smoked tones. The chaos is dialled down in the mains, in which large slabs of grilled beef cuts or chicken are thrown on to wooden boards next to miniature jars of sauces. And if your sweet tooth so desires it, churros with salted caramel espuma are ever so present on the menu. It’s also worth mentioning that Fuego employs a team of guacamole chefs – headed by a serious white-jacketed bloke who makes guacamole all night. It’s not surprising then that the guacamole entries alone take the humble avocado to rock star levels. Besides the classic iteration, there’s one with salmon roe, a spicy version with cili padi, and a favourite of ours: guacamole with anchovies, sundried tomatoes and preserved lemons. Fuego’s clincher is undoubtedly the space in which it sits. The sky-high floor of a KL building never before provided a view of the Twin Towers as resplendent as this one – whether at sunset or after hours, the view is a sparkling panorama. Meanwhile, none of the grandiosity of Cantaloupe or Claret Wine Bar is present at Fuego; it’s a wildcard Troika Sky Dining project for the everyman. For proof, soak in the eclectic Talaverastyle tiles, breezy alfresco vibe and casual canteen-style benches on a weeknight. Almost always fully booked, call and make a reservation a week earlier to be safe.