Way Mod­ern Chi­nois

Time Out Malaysia Visitors Guide - - KL & SURROUNDS -

G-1, [email protected]­wa­ter, Jalan Changkat Se­man­tan, Da­mansara Heights, KL (+603 2095 1118/way. com.my). Way Mod­ern Chi­nois takes a con­tem­po­rary ap­proach to Chi­nese cui­sine; the 60 dishes fea­tured on the menu can be di­vided into two camps: clas­sic dishes that are given a mod­ern re­boot, and brave new in­ven­tions. This is risky busi­ness, be­cause with­out the right bal­ance this could eas­ily be­come pre­ten­tious Chi­nese fine din­ing. So it’s to the chef’s credit that the ex­e­cu­tion is al­most flaw­less. Most mem­o­rable for us was the restau­rant’s sig­na­ture truf­fle roast duck, which best ex­em­pli­fies Way’s deft hand in achiev­ing the elu­sive bal­ance that el­e­vates a dish to a whole other level. The gami­ness of the duck and the earthi­ness of the truf­fle can be over­whelm­ingly rich and pun­gent if not treated care­fully but in this dish each seems not just to com­ple­ment but to en­hance the other. Way’s in­te­rior is what you’d ex­pect from a restau­rant of a fine din­ing cal­i­bre. Hid­den be­hind an unas­sum­ing el­e­va­tor door lies a cool and so­phis­ti­cated dim cav­ern, with dark fur­ni­ture, rose wood pan­elling and over­head spot­lights above your ta­ble. It’s very on trend. And the cock­tail list shows great cre­ativ­ity too, fea­tur­ing lots of Asian flavours such as dried lon­gan and dates, Earl-Grey-in­fused gin and jas­mine-tea-in­fused vodka. Pork-free. Mon-Sat, 12noon-3pm; 6-10.30pm. Closed on pub­lic hol­i­days. $$

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