Gili Trawangan - A Tropical Gem

I sat on the upper deck of the ferry boat and took in the magnificent scenery. In the distance, the skyline was dominated by the majestic Mount Agung, an active volcano that seemed to rise from the sea into the heavens. The fast ferry had just sailed from Serangan Harbour, Bali and was heading to Gili Trawangan, one of three small Gili islands just off the north-west coast of Lombok, Indonesia.

The sea in the Lombok Strait is calmest in the morning and that is when the crossings take place. That morning was no exception and the ride was smooth and pleasant. Two and a half hours later, we approached Gili Trawangan, and I could see the lush greenery that covered the entire island - from its only hilltop all the way down to the white sandy beaches. It was a spectacular sight.

Much to my surprise, there was no jetty and the ferry boat docked on the beach, which meant a short walk in the shallow sea to disembark. The crew unloaded the luggage and stacked all the bags randomly on the sandy beach. I stood ankle-deep in the water holding my shoes in my hands, dumbfounded at the sight of the other passengers scrambling to get to their luggage.

Meanwhile, the local people were buzzing around on the beach, eager to sell their wares that consisted of anything from necklaces and sunglasses to snorkelling trips and rides, the latter being a pony-driven cart which is the local equivalent of a taxi service. Suddenly, my mind was whirling in confusion and I began to feel slightly dizzy. The scene on the beach was chaotic at best!

It had been a very long journey by air to Bali and I didn’t get much sleep. On top of that, I was up at the crack of dawn to get to the harbour on time for the crossing. I felt exhausted from the heat and dehydration compounded the effects of jet lag. I could feel beads of sweat dropping from my forehead as some apprehensions about travelling to the Far East (for the first time in my life) came back in full force.

Now, I find it laughable that right there and then, I was suffering from what essentially boiled down to a combination of culture shock and homesickness. I was too awestruck by my initial impression of the island and could only stare in wonder at my new unfamiliar surroundings. But I pulled myself together and walked to my hotel with my luggage in tow, dodging bicycles and

along the way.

Luckily, I arrived in no time at all and was given a very warm welcome as well as a cold, damp, refreshing towel that was just the thing to raise my spirits. Sitting under a ceiling fan in the open-air reception area, I gazed dreamily at the ocean and wondered at the colour of the bright turquoise water that sparkled in the brilliant sunlight as it lapped the white sandy beach.

The window in my room looked out over the same amazing view of the ocean, but my eyelids felt heavy from jet lag. I sank into a king-sized relief and slept soundly until the next morning. Contrary to the day before, all I could pick up were positive vibes and after a hearty breakfast I was set about exploring the island.

Gili Trawangan, simply known as Gili T, is the largest of the three Gili Islands with a population of about 1,000. Measuring only 6 km², it has one main footpath that circumvents the entire island along the coast and other short tracks that lead to the inner areas where the locals live. There is no motorised transport, just bicycles and I covered the entire island by riding a bicycle in just under two hours.

I discovered that the east coast is the busiest part of the island where the hostels, shops, eateries and bars are located. It is also the hub of the local nightlife. In contrast, the west coast is quiet and secluded, and the upscale resorts are found along here. It is also where the island of Bali forms a breath-taking backdrop to the loveliest sunset views that I have ever seen.

The beaches on the north coast are the most popular for swimming with the friendly turtles, while the surf break is just off the south coast. Much to the surfers’ delight, this is where the waves break over the coral reef and where the shoreline is dotted with boards for rent.

Tourism is the main industry and Gili T is known as the party island, a kind of tropical Ibiza, where backpackers head the way. In recent years, however, there has been much development on the island, including a few upmarket resorts. The local people are extremely polite and friendly to visitors, always ready and willing to lend a helping hand and luckily, almost everybody speaks English.

Fusion food is the best way to describe the cuisine on Gili T. It brings together tastes from different cultures like Indonesian fried rice and noodles, excellent local fresh fish and shellfish as well as popular European fare like pasta, pizza, steak and chicken fillets. All the resorts have an outdoor dining setup at the water’s edge, so in the evenings, it was cocktails on the beach followed by dinner or barbecue buffet.

There are a few downsides to Gili Trawangan worth mentioning. The standard of general hygiene is lacking and drinking tap water is to be avoided at all costs. I brushed my teeth using the bottled water provided by the hotel. Personally, I also kept away from any type of uncooked food, including mouth-watering green and fruit salads. The main footpath is not paved, and, in the most frequented areas, it was muddy and dirty. There are no police on the island and only a couple of medical clinics that have very limited resources. But one thing is for sure: the island grows on you and the positives far outweigh the negatives.

I came to Gili Trawangan because I was invited to a family wedding. My nephew, who was born and raised in Australia, met his future bride on this paradise island where they lived happily for several years. So, when it came to tie the knot, it was a given that Gili T would be their wedding venue. It turned out to be an amazing celebration attended by a mélange of Australian, Indonesian and European guests who travelled to Gili Trawangan for the occasion. It was also the first time in my life that I went to a wedding ceremony riding a bicycle!

Gili T is also a major diving hot spot with professional scuba and freediving schools, but I preferred to pass the time on the beach, laid back on a sunbed or swinging on one of the many hammocks tied to the trees that provided shade from the tropical sun. The sea was warm and inviting although the sharp broken coral that washed ashore did make it difficult to wade in and out of the water barefooted.

I did, however, have a go at snorkelling and swimming with turtles. It was a another first for me and I did it in style by going on an organised boat trip that took us island-hopping on a luxury traditional Balinese outrigger. Donning our snorkels and flippers, we followed our local guide to the place where we could see the friendly turtles and feed the brightly coloured fish that came rushing towards us when we stretched out our arms with a handful of breadcrumbs.

The other two islands, Gili Meno and Gili Air, stand within sight of each other. This time, our guide led us to one of the beaches off Gili Meno where a circular formation known as Nest lies about four metres beneath the surface of the crystal-clear water. It consists of 48 life-size figures, some standing together, and others curled up on the ground that were created by British sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor. Nest is destined to provide a platform for marine life to colonise and inhabit and will eventually become a coral reef.

But time flies when you’re having fun and all good things come to an end. Looking back on the moment that I received the invitation to my nephew’s wedding, I remember googling the location and scratching my head, as my search turned up tsunamis and earthquakes that caused me to wonder about the safety of my destination. With hindsight I can only smile in amusement. For despite my misgivings, my brief stay on Gili Trawangan was one of the most fascinating experiences of my life.