Making a statement

Creative Director Wes Gordon was inspired by the self-assured, strong and full-of-fire Carolina Herrera woman for his bold, heartpounding Autumn/Winter 2022 collection. The silhouettes are markedly linear and tailored, yet feature moments of exuberance like an undulating cascade, an enormous sleeve or a colour reveal at a hem. Bustier shapes are sensually and precisely cut, reinterpreted as fresh separates or a daring beaded fringe.

When it comes to colours, an intensely saturated chroma of Crushed Berries, Anemone Blue, Fire Opal, Deep Peony, Evening Primrose Yellow and Dahlia burst on the runway. Shatteringly-bold Fauvist Florals are arresting, taking on an exaggerated scale. Deep indigo denim, silk moirés, crisp taffetas and failles, signature Herrera cotton shirting, knits embroidered with threadwork and sequins and a lurex brocade featuring blooming irises are the fabrics that bring Gordon's sketches to life.

At the end of the show, he brought out the patternmakers Miro Hermes and François Bouchet, who are retiring after 22 years and 19 years at the label, respectively. A lovely gesture.