The Mole has changed since I was last here. A big new hotel, the Strand, has been built and with it has come a string of new restaurants and shops: Namcrafts Upfront (curios), Café Mole (get a burger for R30 or a waffle with syrup for R22), Ocean Cellar (catch of the day kabeljou for R165), the Farmhouse Deli, and the Brewer & Butcher. We stroll past, plotting where to have dinner.
We drive to Walvis Bay. The wind is blowing sand across