Bambatsi Guest Farm
I can hardly believe our luck when we spot a young leopard barely five minutes after entering the gate to Bambatsi Guest Farm. It slinks off the road and watches the car as I frantically struggle to free my camera from the bag on the back seat. By Murphy’s law, as soon as I manage to untangle my camera, the leopard runs off.
“We’ve probably driven this road a thousand times but we’ve never seen a leopard on it,” says lodge owner Gerald Hälbich over coffee the next morning. Gerald and his wife Inge invited us for breakfast, which also included freshly baked bread and smoked game, a true Namibian delicacy. The Hälbiches purchased the farm in 2006 and have since turned it into a must-visit destination for anyone travelling through the area.
Bambatsi is one of the oldest guest farms in Namibia, having opened its doors in the early 1970s. It’s a place where you immediately feel at home, thanks in part to the welcoming committee of three friendly sausage dogs. “People who visit us for the first time usually stay one or two nights, but returning guests often stay for four nights or more,” says Inge, attesting to the traditional hospitality afforded to guests.
The farm is about 60 km east of Khorixas via the C39. It’s not in the heart of the Ugab Terrace area, but the terraces are only 30 km away – this is the best-value option if you’re travelling on a budget.
Set among mopane trees and purple-pod terminalia, the four campsites provide an opportunity to experience the wilderness of Namibia. With views of rolling hills, it’s just the spot for sundowners before lighting the campfire and settling in for the night.
The farmhouse building is on a small hill with an elaborate stoep that boasts views to the south and west over more mopane-covered hills. It also overlooks a waterhole, often visited by kudu, zebra, giraffe and eland.
Facilities: Of the four campsites, numbers one and two offer the best views. Campsite two has a swing bench for the ultimate sundowner experience. Ablution facilities are all in one building, but each campsite has its own designated toilet and shower. Power points are available at the ablution block if you want to charge a device or keep your camp fridge running. For the not-so-adventurous, there are seven spacious and comfortable bungalows available.
Any niggles? If you’re looking for a luxury lodge experience, you might have to go elsewhere. Bambatsi offers a classic Namibian guest farm experience – something that is not so abundant any more.
Rates: Camping R250 p.p; bungalows R1 500 p.p. DB&B.
Activities: There’s a hiking trail for guests who are interested in birding, or if you just want to get the legs moving a bit.
Contact: 00 264 81 245 8803; bambatsi.com
THE LAY OF THE LAND
Ugab Terrace Lodge is on the first standalone terrace to the west of the D2743 when driving south. The main lounge area is on the southern edge of this terrace, with a deck overlooking Vingerklip and the two bigger and higher terraces on Farm Bertram, where Vingerklip Lodge is located.
Vingerklip Lodge has named the two large terraces on its property – South Terrace and North Terrace – but these don’t actually have official names. The only named rock formations are Vingerklip and Suikerpot, which is further east. The terraces are part of a larger complex that can be seen to the east of the D2743 or viewed when driving along the connecting D2351. Have a look at the satellite view on Google Maps to get an idea of the lay of the land.
The Ugab Terrace and Vingerklip as we experience them today were mainly formed by the Ugab River. Originating on the western edge of the Otavi Mountains, humid conditions around the time of the dinosaur’s demise 66 million years ago allowed the flowing
Ugab to cut into the ancient rocks of the former Damara Mountains and cause intensive erosion. Deep erosion stopped some 14 million years ago, and the river started filling up its bed. Over millions of years, gravel and sand layers were deposited in the Ugab Valley.
About 2 million years ago, a drop in sea levels because of an ice age in the northern hemisphere increased the deep erosive power of the Ugab. This time it cut into the riverbed made of thick layers of debris, boulders and sand.
The riverbed decreased its original width and left behind parts of its old course – the terraces we see today.
When you visit the base of the 35 m-high Vingerklip, be sure to look at the different layers of rock and fine-grained sand. These layers indicate the changing flow rate over millions of years. Rocks show periods of high flow; fine sand layers indicate periods when the flow was slower.
KAOKOVELD & KUNENE RIVER
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On the banks of the Kunene River, 200 km north of Opuwo. Situated right on top of Epupa Falls, the lodge has a restaurant, bar, deck and swimming pool. Camping from R200 p.p. (max four vehicles or two vehicles and two trailers per stand; there are five stands), plus R100 per trailer or caravan. There are three family units, five chalets on stilts with views of the falls, and one honeymoon suite. All accommodation from R1 100 p.p. sharing DB&B. Ovahimba cultural experience R750 p.p.
reservations@epupafalls lodge.com
epupafallslodge.com
2
This Gondwana lodge at Epupa Falls has a restaurant, bar, lapa and swimming pool. Camping from R243 p.p. (10 stands, no electricity). Safari tent from R2 106 p.p. sharing
B&B. You can visit an Ovahimba village (R866 p.p.), do a sundowner walk (R374 p.p.) or go on a guided river walk (great for birding enthusiasts, R352 p.p.)
00 264 61 427 200 gondwana-collection.com
3
This basic community campsite is on the same koppie as the Sundowner Hill viewpoint and overlooks the waterfall. Ablution facilities, awnings, firewood and a bar are available. They’ve recently added two more showers and two toilets. There is power to recharge your camera and phone. Camping R140 p.p.
00 264 81 727 1394
(Samuel Ndiaombe)
samuel.ndiaombe@gmail.com Epupa Falls View Point Campsite on Facebook
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About 1 km upstream from Epupa Falls. There are six riverfront camping stands with private ablution facilities.
There is limited power. Each stand is big enough to accommodate a maximum of 11 people; R215 p.p. Ten Kingfisher tents (two single beds) with communal facilities from R950 p.n. Ten safari tents R2 195 p.p. sharing DB&B. Ovahimba village visit R800 p.p; sundowner drive R395 p.p; half-day rafting trip R800 p.p. Meals available on request.
00 264 61 237 294 (bookings) reservations@epupa.com.na epupa.com.na
5
Kapika’s 10 chalets have great views of the river and the waterfall. There are two camping stands with private ablution facilities R325 p.p. (four people per stand). A double-room chalet costs R2 240 p.p. sharing DB&B. Activities include nature walks R265 p.p, sunset drives R320 p.p, river rafting (enquire at the lodge about rates), and Ovahimba village tours R860 p.p. Swimming pool, restaurant and bar. Ask about specials when you book – locals and SADC members get a 20% discount.
00 264 81 404 1954
(Elizabeth Paulus)
00 264 81 844 2138 (Joyce Paulus) mavingalodge@gmail.com
9 sharing. Rates include breakfast. The swimming pool has one of the best views in Namibia.
00 264 81 458 9373 reservations@opuwolodge.com opuwolodge.com
NEW
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On the B10, about 35 km west of Rundu. The campsites are on grass and each stand has a light, power point, tap and braai. Camping R250 p.p. Tented chalet with en suite bathroom and private deck from R2 125 p.p. sharing, DB&B. There’s a restaurant and a floating river bar. Enquire about SADC discounts. 00 264 81 169 2186 (reservations) taranganamibia.com
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The campsite has toilets, hot showers and braai areas, but no electricity. Camping about R100 p.p. Cool off in the pool at the bottom of the waterfall, which is within walking distance of the campsite.
GPS: S19.26548 E13.88372 No contact details, just arrive.
SKELETON COAST NATIONAL PARK
About 310 km north of Swakop. There are two self-catering houses that sleep 8 (from R3 120 p.n.) and 10 people (from R3 900 p.n.) respectively. There are also 20 double rooms: from R1 250 p.p. sharing DB&B. The kiosk sells basic supplies and the bar has cold beer and Wi-Fi. 00 264 64 694 007 ct.bookings@nwr.com.na nwr.com.na
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This is the only official campsite in the Skeleton Coast National Park, R250 p.p. (max eight people per stand). Only open in December and January. ct.bookings@nwr.com.na nwr.com.na
PALMWAG