Start at the stately Westerkerk / Prinsengracht 281 / T: 13, 14, 17 Westermarkt / and its lovely Westertoren, boasting terrific city panoramas, but first, let’s get straight to retail! Shoot out of the church right, passing the queues at #267 Anne Frank House (see Activities for both), and whirl right into scenic Leliegracht. Keep to the left and cross the bridge, past #6 The Otherist (see Standout Stores), a wunderkammer that wows. Turn left onto Herengracht and gallop 200m to Property Of... / Herenstraat 2 / 020 622 5909 / the propertyof.com / with stylish utilitarian satchels and wallets. Exit right into Herenstraat, J. C. Herman Ceramics at #10 / 06 5794 5494 / jcherman.org / is more like cer-aahh-mics, #6 Black Sheep Road / 06 1499 7752 / blacksheeproad.com / has threads with a Dane/scandi bent for perfectly tousled types (m/w), and #12 Antennae / 020 626 9222 / is an interior design practice selling oh-so-pretty objects. At #13 Francisco van Benthum / 020 820 8208 / closed Mon / franciscovanbenthum. com / peddles contempo menswear, #30a Cosmetics and Care (see Spa) saves face, #38 Orson & Bodil / 020 786 4474 / orsonbodil.com / has handcrafted, haute womenswear by Dutch designer Alexander van Slobbe, and opp. #37 Nostalgia / 020 622 2400 / nostalgia-antiques.com / brims with silverware, plates and other antique bibelots. Cross the bridge into Prinsenstraat, #3 Letting / 020 627 9393 / letting.nl / serves delish fruit shakes, sarnies, cheesecake n’ joe, Margriet Nannings at #6 / 020 620 3413 (m) / and #8 / 020 620 7672 (w) / margrietnannings.com / carries brands like Comme, Amaya Arzuaga, Atsuro Tayama plus her own designs, and WRKSHP 13 at #13 / 020 423 6675 / johnnyramli.com / has beaut baubles, clutches and clothing by Johnny Ramli (w). At #24 Like Stationery / likestationery.com, letterpress lovers will find the collection of writing and office goods simply irresistible, while next door the tiny Comme des Garçons POCKET at #26 / 020 330 9298 / comme-des-garcons.com / is full of stylish must-have accessories. Retrace, hang a left across the bridge, and right into the other side of Prinsengracht, before taking a breather with a cuppa cha at #28 Citea / 06 1188 8998. If you’ve always wanted a gigantic horse lamp by Dutch design hero Marcel Wanders, take the second left into Westerstraat and zoom 8 mins up to his huge Moooi Gallery at #187 / 020 528 7760 / moooi-gallery.com. You’ll pass the sceney SLA (see Lunch) on your right at #34 if you fancy a salad, or if you’re after something more waistline-damaging then as you turn into Westerstraat, pitstop at Winkel café on the right corner / Noordermarkt 43 / 020 623 0223 / winkel43.nl / famed for its apple pie. Continue down Noordermarkt, zip behind the church and Noordermarkt / Mon & Sat / (see Activities), and take the second left into Lindenstraat – cute and petite olde Eetcafé Koevoet is on the left at #17 / 020 624 0846 / serving good, basic Italian fare. Alternatively, follow Noordermarkt to find #5 Finch (see Bars), a nabe fave staple watering hole. Back on Prinsengracht, Fens Décor at #12 / 06 21 225 875 / fensdecor.nl / has gorgeous interior pieces and French Jieldé lights, floral fairytale Pompon is at #8 (see V. Useful), and #2 Papeneiland / 020 624 1989 / papeneiland. nl / is a cosy brown café for a well-earned canalside ale, and perfectly positioned for the next itin... super shopper!