n i u e “undiscovered, unspoiled, unbelievable”

On entry to Niue I became a wanted felon however, I didn’t realize it at the time. I had a big chat with the customs guy and he handed me back my customs form so I wandered off with it only to get an urgent message later under my door that I was essentially “at large” and had to return the form. Urgent, Niue style that is. I just needed to drop it off after the weekend. The world’s smallest independent nation (260sq. kms) is known locally as the “rock”. Niue is a raised coral atoll that stands alone in the centre of a triangle made up of Tonga, Samoa and the Cook Islands. It is 2400kms north east of NZ which translates to around 3 and ½ hours flying time and conveniently uses NZ dollars, NZ power plugs and is only an hour ahead of NZ time (the day before, just on the eastern side of the international date line). Niue prides itself on having people arrive as strangers and leave as friends. In many places this would sound like so much marketing bs but there is an element of truth to it there. At least half the tourists I met were returnees. Many were on their fifth and sixth visit. I watched one group of 3 couples arrive at the Scenic Matavai and rush up and greet the barman by name with hugs and kisses. WHAt to do? This is where Niue comes into its own as a destination. There is LOTS to do. You can do plenty of lying around in the sun if that is your thing, but don’t go expecting sandy beaches, in Niue you lounge around rock pools, tiny little coves and the pool bar at the Scenic Matavai (the nicest – and in fact, only resort on the island). If you are more adventurous you can be on the go all the time. Water sports are obviously huge and Niue is renowned for its fishing and diving. In terms of fishing, there is marlin, wahu, snapper, mahi mahi and yellow fin tuna among others. You can be deep water fishing within minutes of launching because immediately after the coral reef is deep, deep ocean. There is also lots of reef fishing as long as you are smart about the waves and tides. The diving is world class because of Niue’s unique environment. The water is incredibly clear, up to 80m because Niue's porous combination of coral and limestone acts like a giant sponge. This geological quirk means no rivers, creeks or runoffs muddy up the ocean. Niue also has fascinating underwater caves and sea snakes which are unique to the island. These snakes are a bit freaky because they are friendly and swim around in a random manner until they feel your vibrations then they like to come and check you out but they are also highly venomous although the locals casually say that no one has even been known to be bitten by them. Snorkelling on the island is also excellent and there are many places to go including great snorkelling just off the wharf in town. You can also try snorkelling with underwater scooters (http://www.magicalniue.com/) which are great for covering more ground (in a lazy manner!) and for extra power if you are snorkelling off the reef when there are waves. There are also various off the beaten track adventures. For example, Uga (Coconut crab) baiting or hunting. I did two versions of Uga hunting. I went into the stunning rain forest and discovered uga in their natural setting. Funny story, my guide Bev forgot his sack so he just whipped out his bush knife, grabbed some leaves to wrap the crab up, stripped some vines for rope to tie him up and hung him off his shoulder all the while casually telling me that if you handle them wrong you can lose a finger. These are big crabs and unlike any I have ever seen. I also went with my guide Darren Talis on a cave tour to Ulupaka Cave. A guide is essential for this adventure because the cave is completely unmarked somewhere in the bush on the Eastern side of the island. You drive for a while and then walk through the bush to the cave entrance. Darren and I were alone in this huge warren of an underground cave system. We took more than an hour to wander through the magical cave and exited at a different place. There are stalagmites and stalactites everywhere and unusual formations and underground rock pools along the way. As with everything in Niue this natural wonder is completely untouched. I travelled solo to Niue and I can recommend it. Tourists and locals were super friendly

so I ended up having a really social time. I even met the lovely High Commissioner of Niue, Ross Adhern, who took me cycling on the wonderful bush tracks and let me borrow his wife’s bike. The beauty of a small sparsely populated island is that you bump into everyone so often you soon become friends. I felt safe at all times and was out and about before dawn and after dark. There is no crime on the island. The jail sits empty behind the golf course and isn’t even locked. People leave their car keys in the ignition because everyone knows each other and there is nowhere to take stolen stuff. WHEN TO GO? Whale watching is a huge draw card for Niue. Whale watching season is July to Octoberish. The raised atoll structure of Niue means that you can watch the humpback whales calve in the warm water from land almost as well as from the sea. This time of year also has very settled warm weather. I went in the “shoulder season” at the end of May. The weather was fantastic and the island was virtually empty. If you want a deal, look at going around this time. I met people who had paid $99 for return fares on grabaseat. WHERE TO STAY? For a small island, there are quite a few accommodation options. The Scenic Matavai https://www.scenichotelgroup.co.nz/locations/southpacific/niue/scenic-matavai-resort-niue is the fanciest and is truly lovely perched on the side of the cliff with the surf thundering in on the reef below. The views are spectacular and their pool bar is apparently an excellent place to whale watch. There are a variety of self catering places. Taloa Heights http:// taloaheightsniue.nu/ is a group of charming little villas behind the town centre Alofi. It has a small pool and nice decks to relax on. There is also a backpackers in town and guest houses and other accommodation all over the island. The full editorial of Ruth wwwadventuremagazine.co.nz Jillings story can be read at