Canyoning, What’s to love? absolutely Everything

Words and images by Lynne and Steve Dickinson What is there to ‘love’ about being gift-wrapped in multiple layers of 6mm thick neoprene, a life-vests, a harness, a helmet, socks, and boots then being herded up a dusty track for half an hour in the blazing sun? Absolutely everything! We were bundled up like Michelin men, hiking up the Routeburn track just out of Glenorchy, hardly able to move due to the numerous layers of neoprene.

But all you could hear was the friendly chatter, and “Sh#T it’s hot” from various members of our group. We were getting to know one another whilst waddling towards our canyoning destination. Alex and Mike, from Canyon Explorers, led the trip and the rest of our group included Gisela and Ferdinand from Dunedin, Althea and Marian from France and Steve and I. It was a first time canyoning for most of us and although we had read up what to expect there was a certain amount of mystery and trepidation to what the day held. Canyon Explorers are based in Queenstown and have been exploring canyons in the region since the late 1990’s. They have been running canyon expeditions since 1998 and a Via Ferrara since 2003. Canyoning can be a half day or a full day experience and we were enjoying the start of the full day as we ambled up the track. I’m not sure what it is, maybe a mixture of everything; the setting, the adrenaline, the effort, the cold, the fear, the pushing of your own personal boundaries, or being with a group of likeminded people, that makes canyoning such a great ‘experience’. Our day had begun at the Adventure Centre in Queenstown, where we met the staff and were transported out to the canyoning base to be kitted up with our multiple layers of clothing. From here we were driven along the breath-taking drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy and beyond into Mt Aspiring National Park and the start of the infamous Routeburn track. If you have never visited the Routeburn, that’s an experience to savour. The scenery is stunning, and although Queenstown itself boasts incredible views everywhere you look, there is something truly magical about this part of New Zealand. Despite the fact that it was a bluebird day, waterfalls still cascaded down the surrounding mountainsides. We sat in the filtered lights of the beech trees with birds calling to each other and sweat running down our face in rivulets, and it was the perfect introduction to what lay ahead. It was hard to imagine that we would need so many layers because the sun was beating down and there was not a cloud in the sky. But before long we were gingerly crossing the first river trying to stay as dry as possible. As we tip-toed across the shallows trying not to get too wet, Alex called us to look at something in the river then proceeded to splash us with water. At this point we realised just how cold the water was and also that our guide was a bit of a trickster. Our walk up to the start of the canyon took us through the rainforest and although it was somewhat restricting to move in the multiple layers, the place and the setting were a huge distraction. After a bit of a gentle climb up, we stopped on the “story log” for a much needed rest. With steam rising off our glad wrapped bodies, we sat and listened as Mike and Alex told us a little about the rainforest. Mike told us the legend of Mahuika and her fingernails of fire and then Alex handed us each a dark looking leaf telling us it was from the Horopito Plant, otherwise known as “the bubble-gum plant”. She explained that if we chewed it to release the flavours, we would taste the bubble-gum. So like gullible school kids we took a bite of the leaf and eagerly chewed. It did not take long to realise that the Horopito Plant was actually known as the “pepper plant” as we spat the leaf onto the ground trying to get rid of the burn. Apparently, it makes an excellent spicy addition to any meal! By the time we reached the Bridal Veil Stream Bridge we were hanging out to jump in the water, not only to cool down our bodies but also our burning mouths!