Cassoulet a cheat’s version

SERVES 2 HUNGRY PEOPLE OR 4 MODEST EATERS

2 large or 4 small pure pork sausages

1 large onion, diced

1 large carrot, peeled and cut into 1 cm dice 3 garlic cloves, finely sliced

1 bay leaf

3 large thyme sprigs 1 tablespoon ’nduja or 1 thick slice pancetta or smoked belly bacon, cut into small dice 3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and roughly

chopped

1 x 400g can cannellini beans, lightly

drained but not rinsed

½ cup meat or poultry stock or water

(optional)

1 cup soft fresh breadcrumbs 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil (optional)

CONFIT 2 duck legs 1 tablespoon kitchen salt 2 thyme sprigs

300g duck fat

Le cassoulet has mythic status in the south-west of France and different regions have different traditions. Essentially it is a substantial dish of well-flavoured white beans studded with pork, sausage and usually confit of duck. I have eaten many cassoulets and although I love the flavours, they can be challenging to digest, and for me at least a modest portion is plenty. I have described the process in detail in my book Cooking & Travelling in South-West France.

This recipe is my cheat’s version, and delicious it is. I serve it in a beautiful cloud grey, deep stoneware pot, a Christmas gift from chef Annie Smithers made by ceramicist Emma Jimson of Pom-me-granite Studios in the Macedon Ranges. Emma calls her pot a ‘cassole’. Without a cassole, choose a deep ovenproof casserole as the cassoulet is about layers of flavour and texture.

Duck fat is now easily obtainable from all supermarkets. It is difficult giving an exact amount of duck fat for the confit here as how much you need will depend on the size of the pan you use. Perhaps buy more than you think you will need and use leftovers to make excellent roast potatoes another day. Duck fat keeps a long time, so this is no hardship. I urge you to seek out the wonderfully spicy pork spread, ’nduja, if you can, but you can substitute pancetta or pork belly for it if not.

You do need to start the cassoulet a day in advance to create the simple confit, even two days for a more relaxed experience.

To make the confit, rub the duck legs well with the salt. Press the thyme sprigs into each leg, then refrigerate them in a non-reactive dish, uncovered, overnight.

Next day, rinse off the salt and dry the legs very well. Select a small heavy-based saucepan or deep flameproof casserole that will hold the duck legs comfortably without too much extra space (otherwise you will need much more duck fat as the legs need to be covered). Melt the duck fat over medium heat until it measures 90°C on a thermometer. It should not get to boiling point. Slip the legs into the fat, making sure they are submerged, then adjust the heat after 5 minutes to maintain the temperature at around 90°C. Cook for 1–1½ hours, turning once, until a skewer can be pushed through the leg with just a little resistance. Remove the legs to a plate to cool.

Spoon 1 tablespoon duck fat from the duck pan into a small frying pan over medium heat and just stiffen the pork sausages on all sides (they shouldn’t be cooked all the way through). Remove them to the plate with the duck legs. Strain the rest of the duck fat into a clean container for storage. (Providing no scraps of meat have been left in the fat it will solidify and can be used at any time to fry potatoes or cook another duck or make more confit. It is best to line a strainer with a wrung-out piece of muslin to be absolutely sure the duck fat is quite clean.) You can complete all of this a day in advance.

To finish, in a heavy-based ovenproof casserole (I use my 24 cm round Le Creuset casserole for this step) heat 2 tablespoons duck fat. Add the onion, carrot, garlic, bay leaf and thyme (and the pancetta or pork belly, if you don’t have ’nduja) and sauté for at least 5 minutes, until the vegetables are well softened and the onion is starting to colour.

Stir in the ’nduja, if using it, and the chopped tomato. Stir well and cook over low heat for a further 5 minutes. Stir in the canned beans. Cook for a few minutes and then taste. The ’nduja is very spicy and the confit is salty, so it is unlikely you will need to add either salt or pepper. Cut your sausages into large pieces. If the cassoulet is for four people, cut each duck confit leg in half. If for two, leave them as they are.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C fan-forced). Now take your deep ovenproof presentation dish. Place a spoonful of the bean mixture in the dish. Add half the sausage pieces. Cover with more beans. Now tuck in the confit pieces, arranging them on each side of the dish so that a spoonful will dredge up both confit and sausage as well as juicy beans. Finish with the rest of the bean mixture. Does the dish look very juicy or does it look a little bit solid? If the latter, dribble in up to ½ cup stock or water. Scatter with a good layer of the breadcrumbs. They should immediately moisten due to the juiciness of your cassoulet. Drizzle with a couple of spoonfuls of extra duck fat or the olive oil.

Transfer to the oven for about 1 hour until the top is crusty and the cassoulet is bubbling at the edges. Serve the cassoulet at the centre of the table and dig deep with a large spoon. Best of all is to have large shallow pasta bowls ready to take the cassoulet, and alongside a large green salad for afterwards.