Hot smoked salmon kedgeree

This is the perfect dish for hot smoked salmon, which I now think makes the best kedgeree. I wonder whether my mother, sadly long departed, would have agreed; it was she who introduced me to kedgeree as a child. I often think how important

the British Raj dishes were for instilling a love of Indian food into my baby boomer generation. They may be dismissed now as poor copies of the real thing, but we grew up familiar with flavours of cumin, coriander, cardamom, turmeric and even

a little chilli.