‘THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED’
Spring Fling showcases the best of the Central Hawke’s Bay region writes Mike Yardley
AS ROADSIDE BLOSSOMS danced in the gentle breeze, backdropped by the snow-topped grandeur of the Ruahine Ranges standing guard to the west, I dabbled in some of the bucolic delights pepper-potting Central Hawke’s Bay.
Dispersed throughout this hinterland district is a trove of historic villages, stately homesteads, boutique producers, eclectic landmarks and soothing landscapes.
I struck out on State Highway 50, commonly nicknamed “The Road Less Travelled” because it’s the secondary route between Napier and Wellington to complement SH2. Weaving its way through the foothills of the Ruahines, SH50 is like a distilled highlights reel of Central Hawke’s Bay finest features.
Stunning in every season, this driving route is a favourite of vintage car enthusiasts in spring, when pastures are filled with frisky lambs. Tikokino Peonies bloom from October to November, while Taniwha daffodils is a hallmark of spring in Central Hawke’s Bay.
The district comes alive in September and October with a spectacular line-up of events and tours during the annual Spring Fling Festival.
Capturing the essence of this enchanting sub-region of Hawke’s Bay, Spring Fling showcases the very best food, wine, adventure, culture and history.
Central Hawke’s Bay as we know it today is made up of a number of towns and smaller settlements founded by the early pastoralists who bought up great chunks of land here in the second half of the 1800s, created vast farming stations and built beautiful homesteads.
I popped into one of these jewels, Gwavas Garden & Homestead, owned by Stu and
Phyllida Gibson. The homestead is category 1 listed with Heritage New Zealand and boasts one of the best examples of interior totara panelling in New Zealand, a majestic rimu staircase back-lit by a huge stained-glass window containing the family’s Marshalling of Arms.
The homestead has three gorgeous bedrooms available for bed and breakfast style accommodation at ridiculously bargain prices. Stu and Phyllida are wonderfully laidback hosts who will make you feel right at home.
Situated in a mature 9 hectare Woodland
Garden of National Significance, the homestead was built for Phyllida’s greatgrandfather, ASG Carlyon. The property also boasts a magnificent remnant of native forest, which the Gibsons are rightly very proud of. Many species in decline elsewhere still exist in Puahanui Bush, just behind the homestead.
It’s home to long-tailed bats, bush falcon, large numbers of tui and kereru, forest gecko, and a range of unusual invertebrates.
This 132-hectare lowland podocarp forest is a significant biodiversity landmark in Hawke’s Bay. Preserved by the Carlyon and Hudson families, it’s one of the best representative remnants of this forest type, east of the Ruahines.
From there I tootled down to Ongaonga, a stunning historic village of storybook good looks, where I half expected horse and carts to be clopping down the main street. Awash with evocative buildings and cottages, there’s the original school house, jail, butcher and settler’s hut, at your disposal.
The Coles Brothers’ building, in the heart of the village, is particularly special. The category 1 listed building was built in 1878 and housed the Coles brothers’ various enterprises including carpentry, surveying, interior decorating and even coffin building and the local undertaker business. It’s currently being meticulously restored.
It’s a drool-worthy village and a village fair takes place during Spring Fling.
A short hop to Takapau led me to the award-winning Junction Wines. A visit to this family vineyard and cellar door offers a wondrous encounter with their awardwinning, intense, aromatic wines.
The wines reflect John Ashworth’s (former All Black) passion for pinot noir, and his son Leith’s natural flair for winemaking and together they have established an integrated winemaking operation.
The cellar door is located in the working home of John and Jo Ashworth, who are outgoing and entertaining hosts, sharing their knowledge and passion over a wine tasting. It’s stacked with rugby memorabilia from John’s playing days, including his representative jerseys.
The wines are simply exceptional but one drop you won’t want to miss is 2018 Reserve Front Row Pinot Noir. Only 776 bottles of this wine were produced in a limited release, paying homage to John’s All Black number 776. The Front Row Pinot Noir was barrel aged in French oak for 18 months with 50 per cent new oak. The wine packs all the punch of a front row forward, with smooth edges as it ages.