BITE BY BITE
Alexia Santamaria road-tests some of Northland’s best foodie hotspots
It’s always a joy heading north for a weekend away. Golden sands, sparkling waters, small seaside towns, all wrapped up in an easy breezy laid-back vibe. But though Northland is deservedly celebrated for its natural coastal charm, it shouldn’t be defined just by that. There’s plenty for the art-lover, and now the foodie traveller too.
In fact, the Regional Tourism Organisation for Northland has just developed four different itineraries for those in search of good kai in Te Tai Tokerau: Wine and Dine on Island Time; Feast and Forage in the Far North; Wild West Coast Flavours to Savour; Coast to Coast City Lights and Delights.
While you don’t have to follow these suggested trails to the letter, they definitely pull together some of the most delicious bites to discover in different parts of Northland. We road-tested the Coast to City Lights and Delights trail and weren’t disappointed.
Friday
Many people make a regular stop at the Kaiwaka Cheese Shop when heading north. They stock up on gouda, maasdam, cheddar and more, for 5pm nibbles while they’re away. Aside from the European cheeses, we found some great New Zealand ones too — as well as plenty of other artisan products (many from Northland itself).
Another popular stop is Bennetts of Mangawhai, a family favourite of ours. The dreamy, rich handmade artisan chocolate is the star — of course — but we never leave without a packet (or five) of their Vanilla Bean and Chocolate Marshmallows. They have to be some of the most decadent, impossibly fluffy marshmallows in the country — and never last very long.
Our first overnight stop was at Waipu¯ , where my husband insisted on hitting up Mcleods Brewery for some of their excellent Chili Pils and 802 IPA before heading towards Waipu¯ Cove. The beach seems to go on forever there — silver waves glittery with the sparkling afternoon reflections against smooth inviting sands; The Cove is always a great spot for a bite to eat, just across the road. It’s not hard to see why it was recently voted People’s Choice in the Northland Hospitality Awards. It’s that place where everyone will find something — from Buddha Bowls for the health conscious, to cocktails and shared plates or larger meals and fun food for the kids. They also do great fish and chips and pizza if the weather motivates you to dine al fresco on the beach.
Saturday
There’s no mucking around in the morning if you want to check out the Whanga¯ rei Growers’ Market. It was the first-ever growers’ market in the country and the produce is magnificent; but it’s not for the tardy. If you arrive much past 8.30am, pickings will be slim (hot tip, take a chilly bin with a cooler pack if you like oysters — those plump Paroa Bay numbers are gorgeous but you might not feel like them for breakfast).
Other highlights are Grinning Gecko Cheese — you can also visit their shop in Whanga¯ rei and watch them produce their wares through the glass — Maungatapere Mushrooms and plenty of other fresher-than-fresh fruit and veges.
Just round the corner is Biggie Bagels, which our family loved for a breakfast stop. It’s one of those places where you want to hang out all day — the music is pumping, the coffee is good and the family have got the process of trucking out their luscious freshly-made bagels (stuffed to the brim with fillings like salmon and cream cheese or pastrami, mustard, gherkin, melted Swiss cheese) down to a fine art. It’s very popular with the locals.
Taking a break from food, we walked the 4km loop of the basin in Whanga¯ rei, a great way to understand the town centre and surrounds. Start and end at The Hundertwasser Centre — since its opening earlier this year it has attracted thousands of visitors, all keen to experience its signature quirkiness displayed through curved floors and vibrant, chaotic mosaics. It’s an enthralling explosion of colour and form in a muted neutral world — from an artist whose mind was anything but ordinary.
And when you are finally hungry again, the food offering at the centre has creative flair too. Aqua Restaurant and Bar has a varied and interesting a la carte menu. We loved the baked mushroom & ricotta gnocchi and the Vietnamese omelette and would love to come back to try out the dinner offering too.
After a long day of market-visiting, walking and being stimulated by fascinating art we headed to Tutukaka for some coastal downtime. The Quality Hotel Oceans Resort was the perfect place to kick back and relax by the pool and Schnappa Rock, just two minutes’ walk away, provided the ideal dinner spot.
With a strong commitment to sustainability and freshness, Schnappa Rock’s kaimoana is sourced as locally as possible, and some of the produce on your plate will likely come from their own restaurant garden. It was heaving with locals having a great night.
Sunday
Our last morning was filled with coastal beauty at its finest. A stroll up the Tutukaka Lighthouse walkway revealed sublime ocean vistas, and a drive to Matapouri Bay just 15 minutes up the road had us all speechless with its pristine sands and turquoise seas. Then it was on to Whangārei Falls, where the tumbling waters and lush green surrounds never disappoint, but not without a stop on the way for coffee at Black Stump Cafe. We couldn’t resist perusing the wares in Huanui Fresh (where the cafe is located) and were delighted to find locally-grown berries, locallymade preserves, crackers and so much more Northland goodness.
We popped in for one last lunch in Whangārei before hitting the road. No 8 (same owners as the Cove in Waipū , as well as Loco and Quay in Whangārei) delivered with bold-flavoured dishes such as beef cheek rendang, kale slaw, Szechuan spiced prawns and soft shell crab, in a vibrant, fun space. The cocktails were a great way to finish up three excellent days of eating.
If we hadn’t needed to get back that afternoon we know there were fresh Fish and Chips to be had at Mcleods Fish and Chips at Whangārei Heads, or a pub lunch with a view at the historic Parua Bay Tavern. More meandering easy walks, more stunning beaches, more good food, more Northland magic.
Whether you follow these new itineraries bite by bite or just visit the places that appeal, you’ll definitely make some delicious discoveries.