Port and palaces
Genova is famous for its sea-faring past and palazzo elegance. Mike Yardley stops by.
SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE sea and the Ligurian hills, Genoa is a most vertical city, spreading upwards from the port. Strolling the streets, it’s the heady mix of high-density faded glory, sparkling Mediterranean light and medieval lanes that all strike a strong first impression. I began my exploration down in Porto Antico, the time-honoured Old Port, which had become notoriously tatty until Renzo Piano gave it a makeover to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Christopher Columbus sailing off to the Americas from this port.
Redesigned to be a cultural hub for the city, highlights include the Biosphere, containing an unexpected tropical forest and the Bigo Panoramic Lift. This huge spider-like contraption shoots you up 40m for a fabulous view over the glinting Mediterranean.
Galata Maritime Museum is a must if you’re wanting to understand more of Genoa’s sea-faring past. With high-tech displays, real-life replica galleys and over 6000 original artefacts, it’s a maritime head swirl. Right next door, the famous “acquario”, is the biggest in Europe, home to over 5000 sea creatures. Step inside the gracious Palazzo di San Giorgio. The palace’s most famous resident was none other than Marco Polo, who was an inmate in the building’s prison, after commanding a Venetian galley in a war against Genova. While there, he told tales of his travels through Asia to his fellow prisoners and the guards alike. Before long, Europe was enthralled by his tales.
I ventured into the Medieval Quarter, fast getting lost in this cobweb of caruggi (alleys) that thread their way up, down and across the centre of the city. Like little canyons, the caruggi are flanked with pastel-hued buildings as high as six storeys. These cavernous lanes are still like a honeycomb of unvarnished Genovese life, they’re home to a hive of tucked away restaurants, bars and shops.
Do not miss San Lorenzo Cathedral. Its black-and-white zebra- striped Gothic exterior continues to impress once you’ve passed the stone lions and headed inside. First consecrated in 1188, the cathedral’s continued existence is largely due to the dud WWII British bomb that failed to ignite in 1941. Remarkably, it still sits to the right of the nave like a vintage curio. From the cathedral, I strolled to the ancient city walls. Nearby, I wandered inside the small stone house, identified in the 19th century as the childhood home of Christopher Columbus.
Fancy some prestigious palazzo perving? I’m a sucker for extravagant architecture and Genova lays it on thick. Inscribed on Unesco’s World Heritage list in 2006, the city’s main shopping street, Via Garibaldi, was formerly known as Strada Nuova. Along with neighbouring Via Cairoli and Via Balbi — this simple walking circuit through Genova’s Old Town unveils over 40 truly epic Renaissance and Baroque palazzi stemming from the 16th century. Owned by the who’s who of old-school Genovese society, many have been repurposed as galleries and museums.
Keep your eyes peeled for Palazzo Spinola, previously home to one of Genova’s most formidable dynasties and now a magnificent Renaissance art museum, across four floors, after being gifted to the state. Doge’s Palace, the former home of the Doges of Genoa — the rulers of the Republic of Genoa from the 1300s to the 1700s — now hosts art exhibitions and cultural events. Then there is Palazzo Reale, once a large aristocratic residence for the three most powerful families in town.
Another landmark stop to fill your Insta feed is the frothy Piazza de Ferrari. Genova’s fountain-embellished piazza is ringed by magnificently ornate buildings including the opera house, Teatro Carlo Felice, and the art nouveau blockbuster, Palazzo della Borsa, which was previously Italy’s stock exchange.
Where to stay? Handily located opposite Genova Principe Train Station, Hotel Continental is a restored Art Nouveau property, overlooking the old city. It offers elegant rooms with parquet floors, magnificent fish-themed wallpaper, an antique wood-panelled lift, free Wifi, and a lavish breakfast buffet. I booked it on the full-service travel site Expedia, saving you money from its wide selection of airfares, lodging deals, car rentals and activities. Become an Expedia member and save an average of 15 per cent on thousands of hotels. Bundle your travel by booking your airfares, hotel and car at the same time to instantly unlock savings. Use the Expedia mobile app or visit expedia.co.nz