6 of the best

Vilaura Blanc de Blanc Methode Traditionelle 2019 — Hawke’s Bay Available from $59.99

It takes a lot of pluck to enter the rarefied world of elite, New Zealand sparkling wine at any stage of your winemaking career, but launching a new brand with a $60 price tag for your first offering simply has to be applauded.

Founded by Jascha Oldham-selak and Sanne Witteveen, Vilaura has positioned itself as a methode traditionelle specialist and their inaugural 2019 release has set the bar very high indeed. Produced from 100% Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay, this is a richly weighted, bone-dry style that marries stonefruit, apple and citrus characters with underlying brioche / yeast flavours.

It’s a complex, vibrant wine with layers of fine acidity and a finish that goes the distance. Given the price point, comparisons with Champagne are always going to happen, but Vilaura has frontfooted this discussion with luxe packaging and a clear desire to maximise every detail of their production process.

I take my hat off and wish them every success. It’s a hard game they’re playing, and ambition of this level deserves strong support. Bravo.

Bijou Terre de Providence Rose 2023 — France Available from $16.99

In a sea of pale Mediterranean Rose´ s, it takes a little bit of magic to stand out from the crowd and this 2023 Pays d’oc release from Bijou brings both value for money and sheer deliciousness to the table. Vinted from grenache, this is a finely structured, dry wine with layers of tangy red summer fruits and a palate that is tinged with moreish mineral / saline notes.

As you’d expect from rose´ at this price point, it’s relatively uncomplicated and quite straightforward — but that light, easy drinking nature and crisp, crunchy palate is exactly what you’re looking for. It’s a perfect aperitif to kick off a long autumn lunch, but doesn’t need food to be seen at its best. Great buying.

Awakohu Sauvignon Blanc 2022 — Marlborough Available from $12.99

Here’s a complete bargain. The calibre of sauvignon blanc emanating from Marlborough constantly climbs new heights, as growers and winemakers refine their processes and fine tune their craft. If you are prepared to avoid the usual “price fighter” suspects and do your homework, there are some wonderful, very affordable labels on the market that defy their retail asking prices — and this is one of them.

Vinted from fruit harvested from the central Wairau Plain and in the Waihopai subregions, this classic sauvignon opens with an exuberant nose of white stonefruits and sweet citrus. The palate is succulent and awash with the flavours that dominate the bouquet.

It shows real weight and presence in the mouth before those zesty acids round out the finish — leaving the mouth salivatingly fresh. Truly satisfying wine — and cheap as chips. What’s not to like about that?

Shelter Bay Pinot Noir 2022 — Marlborough Available from $13.99

Carrying on with the bargain theme, here is another out-andout winner that fights well above its weight. Vinted primarily for the export market, Shelter Bay has clearly been given the love and attention that would normally be reserved for wines that retail in the $25-$30 bracket.

Aromatic and very enticing on the nose, this plush release shows layers of dark cherry that are complexed with earthy mushroom notes, fine tannins and nicely integrated spices. That rounded, fulsome palate came as quite a shock give the humble price point this wine sits at — making it a perfect option when you are looking for a glass of truly satisfying pinot noir, but don’t want to push the boat out too far. What a little gem this is. It’s one of the best “quaffer” level pinot noirs I have tasted and, accordingly, it is highly recommended.

Peregrine Pinot Noir 2021 — Central Otago Available from $49.99

A recent tasting of the Peregrine portfolio reiterated in my mind what a solid producer they are, and this excellent 2021 pinot noir was a terrific way to complete a review of their wines. The nose was redolent with the aromas of Central Pinot — black cherry, plum, and stewed dark fruits mingled with notes of thyme / green herbage and the slightest hint of oak spice. The palate was supple and quite sumptuously weighted with touches of game, olive and baking spice entering the conversation — but the lasting impression here is harmonious and very balanced.

I loved the way the finish had such softly expressed acidity — adding another layer of sumptuousness to this very complete expression of modern, Central Otago Pinot Noir.

Vieille Mule Rouge 2020 — France Available from $21.99

From an area once known for insipid, bulk wines, the Languedoc-roussillon region of Southern France has become a hotbed of vinous value — and home to some of most user-friendly wines on the palate. Vinted from 100% old vine grenache by well-known negociant Jeff Carrel, this is a broody, darky fruited example of fullbodied grenache with plenty of grunty, serious character.

Grenache at its simplest can be a glossy amalgam of juicy black and red fruits, but here we find heightened layers of savoury palate weight and loads of tannic structure. That sense of drive and purpose elevates this wine to a much higher plane, and anyone looking for a well-made, interesting red wine to enjoy with a hearty dinner should be drawn to this 2020 release. I loved it — and can say with some authority it’s a banging match with rosemary spiked roasted lamb. It’s well worth a punt. Trust me.