DIY boating
The forces required for retrieving an anchor make the size of the winch, its correct placement and appropriate rode a crucial equation. Getting it wrong will cause premature winch failure and maybe serious boat damage.
Windlass matters
Ilike illustrating this column with real examples about the subject, and our project boat has provided a sharp lesson in how not to install a vertical anchor winch.
The basics were done right: the unit was sized appropriately for the vessel (according to the manufacturer’s website), and it was mounted in a solid area of deck with reinforcement to spread the load over a wide area. In the chain locker there was sufficient fall for the rode to drop without jamming, and the winch was wired appropriately with cable of adequate rating for continuous operation.
But the vessel had no provision for long-term anchoring. It was left for a long time on a swing mooring with the heavy mooring rope looped over the winch. A succession of storms eventually bent the capstan shaft and damaged the mounting. Worse, the underlying reinforcement wasn’t marine ply and with water seepage the entire piece simply rotted through.
First item of order was to rectify the mooring situation. New, heavy-duty mooring cleats were installed to take the strain. This allowed us to clear the bow area, and we started cleaning the rot.
Removing the existing winch required a reference to the manual. Different models come apart in unique ways, with the mounting bolts usually coming up from below deck to reduce the chance of water ingress.
In the end the ply was so rotten we simply cut right through the deck and removed the winch. Fortunately, the deck itself was is reasonably condition (except for immediately below the winch) so we will be able to scarf in a new piece of marine plywood and epoxy it into place and make good.
RE-INSTALLATION
We purchased a new bowsprit selected to make sure the anchor would be held snugly, clear the bow and wouldn’t bounce around when underway. In extreme conditions or for long passages a chain snubber is a good idea, so the weight of the anchor is not held purely by the winch. We also ensured a good quality swivel was fitted to the chain, so the anchor always
comes into the bowsprit correctly aligned.
Next task was a new support. There are various options but we elected to fit a 10mm aluminium plate on top of the deck, with suitable anti-corrosion protection between the aluminium and the stainless bolts.
Under the deck a further piece of thick marine ply spreads the load over a wide area. Our anchor well has around 600mm of fall (the distance between the underside of the chainwheel and the bottom of the anchor well) – adequate for this model. With more restricted space we could have chosen to replace the winch with a drum model, which suits boats with very shallow anchor wells.
Before refitting the winch we gave it a good service. Very few winches get the annual clean and lubrication they should receive, and we used the opportunity to have it fully checked out. We had the shaft straightened, replaced the gearbox oil and greased the shaft and clutch mechanisms.
We also cleaned all the drains inside the unit – they allow any water ingress to escape. In our case the pressure arm and stripper, two parts that can wear over time, were still in good condition so did not need replacing. Finally, we coated the motor and gearbox with a good layer of corrosion protector. Products that should be used for this include Lanocote and Prolan.
We considered installing a rode counter but budget constraints have kept this for a later upgrade. We also checked that our chain was correct for the winch (most chainwheels have a stamped code – for size-verification with the manufacturer), and the condition of the rode. We also double-checked that the end of the rode was actually attached to the boat, another common mistake!
ANCHOR INSTALLATION
It was left for a long time on a swing mooring with the heavy mooring rope looped over the winch capstan.
The angle at which the rode exits the chainwheel and passes over the bowsprit is important, so we made sure the winch was at the correct height. We cut the mounting holes and test-fitted the winch, checking that everything lined up. We
used Duralac sealant to prevent corrosion between the aluminium and stainless items, and secured everything.
The last part of the job was the wiring. In our case the controls for the windlass were already in place, but we used the opportunity to check that the circuit breaker between the battery and the controls was adequately-rated.
A reverse solenoid takes care of reversing the polarity to the DC motor to let the anchor out, and a helm switch gives control of up/down motion. With everything done properly, we should get years of trouble-free operation out of the unit.
Especially if we remember to clean and lubricate the unit every year or two!
BNZ