Boating NZ

Rememberin­g Titanic

More than a century after sinking on her maiden voyage, the ‘unsinkable’ ship remains an enigma. Belfast’s Titanic Museum – opened in 2012 on the very site where the luxury liner was built – provides an absorbing insight into her brief but dramatic life.

- BY NIGEL ASKEN

Belfast’s museum to the unsinkable ship is a fascinatin­g presentati­on of facts, myths and mystery.

For anyone unaware, Titanic was actually one F of three sister ships built for the White Star line – the other two being Olympic (slightly older) and Britannic (the youngest).

Representi­ng the bows of these gigantic liners, the museum is an angular, imposing edifice, its aluminium-clad exterior gleaming in the sunlight. And though the museum’s architectu­ral design draws on the three vessels, it is definitely Titanic’s gig.

Inside – spread over five floors – are nine interactiv­e galleries brimming with artefacts, replica cabins, holograms, informatio­n about the iceberg, the passengers, artwork, photograph­s and line drawings – a captivatin­g blend of special effects, elevator rides, full-scale reconstruc­tions and innovative features.

Meandering through the exhibits is about as close as you’ll ever get to experienci­ng the reality of what was once labelled the ‘ship of dreams’ – now a rapidly-decaying wreck nearly four kilometres below the surface of the North Atlantic.

You can’t help admiring the innovation and sophistica­tion of her design – and the scale of the engineerin­g.

For most 21st century observers, the story of the 882-foot (269m), 46,328-tonne Titanic is largely about the tragedy – the loss of more than 1,500 lives in the frigid waters off Newfoundla­nd in the early hours of April 15, 1912.

But many are fascinated by the glamour and opulence of her wealthy, first-class passengers – as depicted so causticall­y in James Cameron’s epic 1997 blockbuste­r starring Kate Winslet and Leonardo Dicaprio. Others nod sagely at the arrogance of her owners and operators – and the inevitable fall that follows hubris.

There’s an intriguing overview of the monumental battle between White Star and the arch-rival Cunard line – each angling to secure the Blue Ribbon – the coveted prize for the fastest Atlantic crossing.

These elements are all strikingly presented in the museum’s exhibits – with all the supporting visuals, smells and audio – along with plenty of lesser-known facts about the ill-fated ship. You can even view mesmerisin­g underwater footage of the wreck on the ocean floor.

But for me the museum’s take-home messages are a little more complex.

You can’t help admiring the innovation and sophistica­tion of her design – and the scale of the engineerin­g. At the time of her launching, Titanic was the world’s largest man-made moveable object.

Very impressive stuff for the early 20th century, when state-of-the-art ships were coal-fired behemoths driven by whirling crankshaft­s and gigantic pistons.

I also didn’t know that when work began on Titanic in 1909, Harland & Wolff was the world’s largest commercial shipyard, employing around 14,000 men. So large, in fact, that her slightly older sister, Olympic, was built alongside her at the same time, with both slipways serviced by a single gantry – the world’s largest.

And yet, offsetting all of that, you come away with a slightly uncomforta­ble insight into the mindset of class-conscious Edwardian England. You tour through the ‘re-created’ world of the first-class passengers – their cabins, the grandeur of the dining rooms, the menus(!), the gymnasium, the Turkish baths.

The difference between this and the less-opulent accommodat­ions/dining facilities for those travelling second-class is staggering, and it’s worlds away from

the rabble in third-class (steerage) consigned to bunks far below in the vessel’s bowels. And God forbid there should be any integratio­n of the strata – even by error.

Titanic cognoscent­i – and the museum is crawling with them – are known as ‘ Titanoraks’ and, after exploring the museum, you feel semi-qualified to join the club. Over the years many observers have commented on the psyche of the people of Belfast – and even of the wider Ireland – following the sinking of Titanic. Everything went very ‘flat’ – especially at the epicentre of the world’s ship-building industry – and there’s a sense that it never really recovered.

Perhaps that sentiment underscore­s the popular and slightly defensive quip often heard around Belfast today: “She was all right when she left here”.

Belfast Titanic is a wonderful, thought-provoking place – a superb portrayal of the ill-fated ship that simultaneo­usly reflects on the wider maritime, economic and industrial issues of Belfast in the early 20th century.

Since it’s 2012 opening – commemorat­ing the 100th anniversar­y of the ship’s sinking – the museum has attracted millions of visitors. It’s also won multiple awards and was judged Europe’s Leading Visitor Attraction at the World Travel Awards 2016.

If you’re in the area, it’s a must- visit. Leave yourself plenty of time. BNZ

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 ??  ?? BELOW Belfast’s museum is modelled on the bows of the three sister ships.LEFT Titanic departs on her maiden (and last) voyage. As President Trump would have noted, the aft funnel was ‘fake news’ – it was there only for symmetry and aesthetics.
BELOW Belfast’s museum is modelled on the bows of the three sister ships.LEFT Titanic departs on her maiden (and last) voyage. As President Trump would have noted, the aft funnel was ‘fake news’ – it was there only for symmetry and aesthetics.
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 ??  ?? TOP LEFT Harland & Wolff’s original drawing office where the mammoth ships were designed. It’s now part of the exhibit.TOP RIGHT Scores of interactiv­e displays explore every feature of the vessel.BELOW Superblypr­esented exhibits to captivate minds young and old.
TOP LEFT Harland & Wolff’s original drawing office where the mammoth ships were designed. It’s now part of the exhibit.TOP RIGHT Scores of interactiv­e displays explore every feature of the vessel.BELOW Superblypr­esented exhibits to captivate minds young and old.
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