Retaruke wilderness
Mike Yardleyspends time in Ruapehu in the backcountry at Retaruke Country Estate
IF YOU’RE LOOKING TO have a splurge on a unique luxurious escape in the Ruapehu backcountry, look no further than Retaruke Country Estate, an out-of-thebox wilderness experience, where you can enjoy exclusive use of the lodge, swathed in 1618ha of farm and bush, just west of National Park.
It is the irrepressible sense of the wild seclusion that instantly strikes you, on the drive in to the lodge.
The property is situated on Kurua Farms and its adjoining “hunting block”, stretching from river flats past sheer rocky bluffs up onto an imposing plateau some 500m higher than the valley floor.
The farm nails the challenge of being economic in an environmentally sustainable way by growing manuka honey on the steeper slopes, rearing sheep and cattle on the flats, alongside the tourism endeavours from the lodge.
Glenn and Carolyn are the most wonderful, engaging and disarming hosts — as are their gorgeous dogs, Dodge and Boof. Their background in conservation and ecology accentuates the pervasive ethos of sustainability at Retaruke Country Estate.
There’s an active pest eradication programme in place, primarily geared at safeguarding resident kiwi and breeding whio pairs.
Glenn led me on a spectacular tour of the estate, down to Whangairehe Stream, a tributary of the Retaruke River, where a family of whio were frolicking in the gin-clear water and fast flowing rapids, beloved by these ducks.
It was an indelible highlight to get so up close with these endangered ducks. A multitude of activities can be enjoyed at Retaruke.
You’ll definitely want to savour a sumptuous outdoor picnic high on a ridge top or beside a burbling stream, soundtracked by native bird life.
There’s horse-riding for beginners or you can enjoy a more gnarly horse trek, for advanced riders, revelling in the remoteness and those colossal vistas.
It’s also ideal terrain for exploring on an e-mountain bike, while the extra-intrepid can experience free range hunting for wild red and fallow deer, while trout fishing is also very popular.
My strong recommendation would be to jump behind the wheel of their all-terrain side-byside farm vehicle, and enjoy a blast on the off-road trails. It’s like a souped-up golf cart, but extra hardy, tackling those steep slopes like a frisky mountain goat.
The artfully designed lodge was built for owners Warren and Jen in 2000, crafted from honey-hued mudstone blocks shipped from Nelson. Stylish and spacious, you’ll soon feel right at home courtesy of Carolyn’s magnificent homecooked meals, with all the trimmings. I feasted on steak, salmon, venison, the very best home-made bread, supreme summer salads and decadent desserts.
Treat yourself to this blissedout kingdom unto itself on a tailormade escape.
Retarukecountryestate.co. nz
North from National Park village, I tootled up to the pintsized village of Owhango.
If you’re peckish, do not miss the main street hospo gem of Blue Hill Cafe, nor their moreish lemonade scones.
But my principal assignment was to explore Ohinetonga Scenic Reserve, an unlogged native podocarp forest that was saved from the ravages of historic milling. This gorgeous slice of wilderness is on the boundary of Tongariro Forest Park and is one of five national kiwi sanctuaries.
Ten years ago, Owhango Alive was formed by a group of local residents concerned about the lack of birdlife in the Ohinetonga Reserve.
Their tireless endeavours with plant and pest eradication are paying handsome dividends, as is evident by the now voluble birdsong and the nearly 300 traps dotting the trails.
After admiring the salivating
views of the river and Tongariro Forest from the bridge, I walked the full 3.8km loop track around the reserve, serving up attractive scenery, a boardwalk crossing of soothing Ohinetonga Lagoon and through the stunningly beautiful forest.
A massive 600-year-old totara tree is well worth a photostop and a hug. In fact, I ended up canoodling with many trees
on the trail. It’s official, I’m a treehugger.
I tripped my way around the Ruapehu region in my trusty Toyota Highlander, courtesy of Ezi Car Rental. Kiwi owned and operated, you’ll enjoy an excellent range of cars, stringent cleaning practices, super sharp prices, and fast and friendly service, from 25 locations across the country.
www.ezicarrental.co.nz
Summer. The time where the country relaxes and recoups, with warm weather, spending time in the sun, and road trips with friends and whānau.
While some of us would happily stay inside the safety of our cars with the windows down, there are many who would much prefer to feel the wind on their face, smell the rubber on the road, and race like the wind on their motorcycle.
It’s this time of year where riders get their gear on and ride some of the Hawkes Bay’s most beautiful roads, like in Wairoa. But, to truly get the most out of every ride, the best thing riders can do is upgrade their skills. And the best way to do that is with a Ride Forever course.
Ride Forever is an ACC initiative, aimed at giving riders sound information and access to world-class training with renowned coaches (with Roadsafe ready to train you in the Hawkes Bay), so that they can make better choices. But don’t just take our word for it.
Meet Tom. Tom’s been riding for the last six years. As someone who had wanted to get out on the road and ride since his uni days, Tom decided to stop procrastinating and just get his Basic Handling Skills course done. He was hooked immediately, now owns two bikes, a 2016 Suzuki GSX-S1000 and a 2021 Yamaha YS125, and rides most weekends year-round.
Tom’s favourite part about riding is hard to pinpoint as so much of it is linked in with other aspects, “You’re a bit closer to the world than in a car, it’s a great way to either perk up a stink day or make a good day even better, you can go solo or out with a group. I’d never consider just going for a random three-hour drive in the car, but find myself easily doing that on the bike.”
Like all motorcyclists, Tom realises that his passion comes with risk. He has completed a total of seven Bronze, Silver and Gold Ride Forever courses to help equip him with the skills necessary to look after himself on the road. “It’s mainly about doing things better and safer, and a big part of doing them was being aware that you don’t know what you don’t know.”
Tom came out of his Ride Forever courses with more confidence and improved behaviours, especially on emergency braking. The most enjoyable part of the course for him was the awesome instructors and being able to put his learnings into practice on the day. Plus, “It’s a full day for sod all money”.
He would “absolutely” recommend Ride Forever to other riders. “Even if you know everything that they go over on the course it can sometimes be a reminder to practice something that you may “know how to do” but haven’t put into practice in a while.”
Thinking about doing a Ride Forever course of your own? Well, now is the time. Courses start from $20 for up to eight hours of riding. Plus our cashback initiative is back and it’s easier than ever! If you’ve held your full license for two years and complete a Ride Forever Gold course, you’ll receive $200 cashback.
And when you enter the code “SUMMER” when booking your course with our local providers, you’ll go into the draw to win a $500 gear voucher at a store of your choosing! Go to rideforever.co.nz/ summer for full Ts and Cs. Get onto it and book your course today!