Fun for foodies
Wā naka’s eating scene matches its scenery, Mike Yardley writes
THE MESMERISING LAKESIDE SETTING of Wānaka sets the stage for happy holiday frolics. As autumn takes hold, there’s really something quite magical about the flaming hues that torch the trees so theatrically — best exemplified by that vast sweep of lakeside Lombardy poplars.
The depth of the leaf fall along the lake edge track in deep autumn is the stuff of legend – a blizzard of crinkled brown and gold recasting the landscape and crunching under your feet.
Wānaka offers far more choice than you’d expect from a town this size. Fresh local produce, brilliant wines, a buzzing craft beer industry and superb café culture all combine to power a sparkling hospitality scene, bursting with verve and variety.
Here’s a round-up of some of my favourite venues.
It’s an institution to rival that Wānaka tree, Kai Whakapai. Food made good. With a sunny sprawl of outdoor tables and eclectic Kiwi dé cor, it’s a go-to for comfort food throughout the day, before morphing into a relaxed bar after dark. The cool kids love it.
If your idea of breakfast entails downing a Mimosa or Bloody Mary, you’ve come to the right place. Don’t miss their delicious Duck Bao Buns and Katsu Fried Chicken later in the day, over sundowner cocktails.
With an unmistakeable Middle Eastern accent, Big Fig is a headline café where everything is made in-house, the luscious meat is free-range and slowcooked, the legendary salads burst with flavour and they boast a stunning range of vegan and vegetarian dishes. Choose from small, medium or large servings and take your tastebuds on an exotic journey.
I headed there for breakfast and drooled over the hot cabinet options, including one of my all-time brekky faves, shakshuka. They do a very fine version.
For breakfast on the run, grab their gozlemes. Their take on this Turkish classic consists of fried pita dough filled with harissa chicken, spicy potato and onion, egg and spiced tomato or creamy mushroom. Wow!
Later in the day, if you’ve earned the reward of dessert after busting your gut in Wānaka’s great outdoors, or duly conquered the summit of Mount Iron as your personal fitness regime, enjoy the surrender of their divine honey fig cheesecake. You deserve it.
A much loved Wānaka café that the locals scoot to is Federal Diner, snugly hidden down a little lane off Helwick Street. This town sure loves its scones and Federal Diner is swooned over for its cheese and date scones. When they’re gone, they’re gone!
Lunch is all about inventive sandwiches, salads and blackboard specials, but dinner is the stand-out. My menu pick? Slow roasted merino lamb shoulder with white bean cassoulet and salsa verde.
For cheap eats and food to go, the colourful food truck scene is always good fun. An eclectic array of offerings can be found at the Brownston Street food trucks market. Don’t miss the fried chicken from Firebird.
Further down the road, opposite the gorgeous Cinema Paradiso, an essential pastime is to pop by Charlie Brown’s retro caravan. An 8-year-old institution, this is the go-to for French crepes and savoury galettes. Creˆ pes are not only a sweet delicacy. You could not wish for a more enchanting stay than at Edgewater Wānaka.
It’s the only accommodation in town that boasts an absolute lakefront position, edged by those winning waters, prized poplars and rolling velvety lawn. Dotted across the expansive site, all of the one and two bedroom self-contained apartments feature modern furnishings and lipsmacking vistas from the pampered comfort of your spacious living area.
Bliss-out, relax, unwind and indulge. It’s that sense of space that is so precious.
Wineglass Café is an alluring on-site venue that spills outside for an al-fresco vibe, with dining across the day, including flavourful snacks like their famed super scones, spanning ingenious flavour creations like Apple scones with salted caramel and mascarpone to Crystallised Ginger scones with rhubarb and lime compote and whipped cream. I’m in heaven.
Dinner at the resort is a must. My recommended picks from the dinner menu? Autumnal Gnocchi which is accompanied with pumpkin puree, salt baked beetroot, kale and ajo blanco.
You’ll also adore their Stuffed Pork Belly, which includes field mushrooms, rocket, olive oil mash and quince aioli.