TOP NZ SYRAH
Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2016 (Hawke’s Bay) -7 $60 ★★★★★
THE BEAUTY FOR WHICH the best New Zealand syrahs are gaining an international reputation is all here. Inky dark, this wine is exquisitely perfumed, offering an extravagance of violet, spice and pepper scents. In the mouth, dark cherry and blue fruit flavours are set against a molten texture, the result of dense fruit married to beautifully ripe, fine tannins. It flows seamlessly and finishes with a flourish. A classy rendition, not to mention just plain delicious.
A NEW APPROACH
After the awesome vintages of 2013, 2014 and 2015 in Hawke’s Bay, 2016 brought everyone back down to earth. “There was intermittent rain from mid to late March, and you had to keep an eye on the fruit every day leading up to harvest,” says Villa Maria Group Chief Winemaker Nick Picone. “Syrah came through as the pick of our reds that year.” Our top wine is a blend of the best fruit from Villa’s Twyford and Omahu Gravels vineyards, both in the heart of the Gimblett Gravels winegrowing district. Picone and his team have been resetting their approach to making syrah over recent vintages. “The focus now is on perfume. We’ve moved away from making darker, extracted styles, and we no longer use so much new oak. We’re after complex aromatics, and that vintage (2016) did deliver on that front.” Only 300 cases were made so interested parties should be in quick. Picone’s food match? “Hawke’s Bay syrah is made for venison.”
2 / Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2016 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★★ -4 $40
This syrah from one of Hawke’s Bay’s premium producers of the variety is both serious and uplifting. A sprinkle of pepper, still dark fruit, attractive cedary oak, a whisper of florality (there is a 2% viognier presence)… all this comes packaged in a fantastic structure built around broad, round tannins. It has weight, but steps delicately.
3 / Mt Difficulty Single Vineyard Ghost Town Syrah 2016 (Central Otago) ★★★★★ -4 $55
Central Otago syrahs are not a common breed, and wines like this make you wonder why. Lifted floral (violets) and spice scents lead through to an energetic mouthful where the dark fruit is as pure as a tree-ripened plum. The tannins are fine and a little assertive, but the overall complexity and verve are compelling. Try it with Moroccan spiced lamb.
4 / Elephant Hill Reserve Syrah 2015 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★★ -4 $50
A label that has been delivering big time with syrah over recent vintages, does it again with this wonderfully complex wine. Moody olive tapenade and tar scents pave the way to a juicy, silkily textured palate, brimming with pepper, cured meat and dark fruit flavours. A generous, concentrated wine ready to be enjoyed now.
5 / Vidal Legacy Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2014 ★★★★★ -5 $80
Years from now, 2014 will be talked about as one of the truly great Hawke’s Bay vintages. This dark, vibrantly coloured, fragrant wine arrives on the palate like a rich, slow-moving lava flow. It is concentrated and has a saturating quality, bold tannins adding to its engaging personality. Cellar it for a few years, then enjoy it alongside a juicy steak au poivre.
Te Awa Single Estate Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2016 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★ -4 $30
Magenta-rimmed, this is a lighter stepping style from winemaker Richard Painter. In the mouth, it immediately seduces with juicy sweetness. A crisp tightness gives it precision, and red fruit notes (cranberry), make most of the play flavourwise. “Seamless tannins,” noted John Belsham. It would be a great partner for chorizo and chicken dishes.