Te Awa Single Estate Hawke’s Bay Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 -5 $30 ★★★★★ TOP NZ BORDEAUX BLENDS

“IT’S NOT THE BIGGEST wine in the line up, but nor is it small. What it does have is seamless balance and lovely fine tannins,” noted Sam Harrop. Sensitive winemaking is on display here, especially in regard to ripeness levels. Attractive herbal characters are woven through a bucket of blue and red fruit that has a joyous, brazen quality. A judicious touch of cedary oak adds complexity. It’s a wine that combines boldness with finesse.

BLENDING IN

When we spoke to Te Awa winemaker Richard Painter, he was up to his nose in vintage 2018, making wine in Villa Maria’s brand new Hawke’s Bay facility for the first time (Villa being owners of the Te Awa vineyards and brand). The news that his single estate Bordeaux blend had come top of the Cuisine class was well received. “It wasn’t the easiest vintage, but I was pleased with that wine,” he said. “There were no Kidnapper Cliffs (Te Awa’s premium tier) wines that year, so that was our top Bordeaux blend in

2015. The fruit is grown on vines that are now almost 30 years old.” Painter has a soft spot for making this wine style and he also enjoys drinking it; French claret occupies a large proportion of his own cellar. “I particularly like the creativity that comes with blending. 2015 was a little unusual. Malbec replaced cabernet franc as 10% of the blend. The malbec came up trumps that year and gives the wine colour and tannins, as well as spicy peppercorn and dark tea characters. The final proportions were 80% merlot, 10% cabernet sauvignon and 10% malbec.” When asked to supply a food match for our top wine, Painter said he couldn’t go past the match the Te Awa winery restaurant offers: slowcooked (eight hours) lamb shoulder.

2 / Clearview Estate Old Olive Block 2016 (Hawke’s Bay)★★★★★ -4 $45

This is a fascinating wine, estate-grown at Te Awanga from vines grown near a 100-year-old olive tree (originally planted by the pioneering Vidal family). It is cabernet sauvignon-dominant, and leads with intriguing leafy notes. It grows through the palate, with ripe dark fruit flavours joining the party, and has a lengthy finish. The perfect wine for osso bucco.

3 / Vidal Legacy Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★★ -5 $70

This is a handsome treat for cabernet lovers from a stellar Hawke’s Bay vintage. Crushed cassis and seductive floral scents lead the charge. In the mouth it is deliciously supple in texture and is built around a radiant, succulent core of dark and blue fruit. Gorgeous now, it will also age gracefully.

4 / Villa Maria Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2014 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★ -5 $50

Villa’s experienced Hawke’s Bay team has crafted a superb blend with great purity and elegance. Floral scents (roses), emerge alongside attractive herbal and tobacco notes. A concentrated fruit presence offering sweet cassis and a touch of spice is swathed in lovely ripe tannins. The finish is long and fine. Try with a pepper steak.

5 / Coopers Creek SV Gimblett Gravels Merlot Malbec 2015 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★ -4 $25

Winemaker Simon Nunns loves working with Hawke’s Bay malbec, and made great use of it in this dark, juicy ‘M & M’ blend. Stillness and depth mark the fruit presence, which resonates with dark plum and an endearing herbal twist. Soft ripe tannins provide direction and flow. The perfect wine for a pepperoni pizza.

Mills Reef Elspeth Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★ -6 $49.95

“Cabernet marches across the palate…” the saying goes, and this one certainly does that. It is an imperious wine, brimming with cassis, blue fruit, mocha and cedary spice notes. In the background, rumbling away, are round, bold tannins. Such a generous, hearty style needs a food match in kind. Try it with the Sunday roast.

Rongopai Hawke’s Bay Merlot Cabernet 2016 ★★★★ -4 $20.95

Rongopai translates as ‘good taste and feeling’. Plenty of that here, along with outstanding value for money. The fruit is welcoming and juicy, with red fruit and herbal notes mingling with darker flavours. The tannins are soft but substantial. It’s an elegant, very drinkable wine, ready to be enjoyed now.