REVIEWS

MARYAM SINAIEE, HEAD OF ZEUS, H/B, $59.99

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I urge you to read the introductions in this book and linger over the gorgeous photos before diving into the food. You’ll learn about the seasons and festivals that influence Persian food, the teb-be sonnati traditions around balance and the ceremony surrounding the serving of foods. I’d always assumed that Persian food would be daunting to prepare and require difficult-to-find ingredients. But with this collection of more than 100 recipes recreating the home cooking of her childhood, Maryam Sinaiee presents simple methods and familiar ingredients, even if they do sometimes turn up in unexpected combinations such as lamb and rhubarb stew or apricot and poached egg soup. Though things such as saffron, pomegranates and rosewater are almost pantry staples these days, some others such as dried limes or barberries might stretch the resources of your local supermarket. The book runs through the seasons, giving not only recipes but the stories and traditions that go with them, and a photo with every dish. And now I know how to create tahdīg – the crunchy crust that forms at the bottom of the rice pot – as well as scores of other rice dishes. TRACY WHITMEY