Cuisine

WINE READS: A LITERARY ANTHOLOGY OF WINE WRITING

JAY MCINERNEY, GROVE PRESS UK, H/B, $39.99

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Collected here are 27 diverse and highly enjoyable pieces of writing about wine, edited by novelist and wine writer Jay Mcinerney. Expecting a rather high-brow scholarly approach, I was delighted to spot the appearance of Aurelio Zen, one of my favourite, fictional Venetian wine-loving detectives (though it’s a hard-fought battle with Commissari­o Guido Brunetti) as well as Roald Dahl and a piece from Rex Pickett’s Sideways

(on which the 2004 movie was based). Though wine is the common thread there’s not a tasting note in sight; pieces have been selected for being a good read. Jancis Robinson tells of the horrors and delights of blind tastings, there’s a true crime tale about the poisoning of the world’s greatest vineyard and a profile of Madame Clicquot who forged through Napoleon’s defeat to create one of today’s great Champagne houses. It’s always a treat to find a good writer you have never heard of, so I’ll be searching out AJ Liebling’s Between Meals, purely on Mcinerney’s recommenda­tion that it is one of the best books about Paris ever written, ranking alongside Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast. TW

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