YOGHURT-MARINATED LEG OF LAMB WITH SPICY FENNEL & SUMAC

SERVES 8-12

When it comes to cooking a leg of lamb, I have some good news and some bad news. The bad news is that I understand a whole leg of lamb is large and expensive and intimidating. But here’s the good news: its massive size and protective cloak of delicious, delicious fat make it difficult to overcook or dry out, especially when done low and slow.

2-2.5kg bone-in leg of lamb coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup fennel or cumin seeds, finely crushed,

plus extra for serving

2 cups full-fat Greek-style yoghurt, plus extra for serving 6 garlic cloves, finely grated

3 tablespoons coarsely chopped oregano leaves,

plus extra for serving

1 tablespoon chilli flakes, plus extra for serving

¼ cup olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

¼ cup lemon juice, plus an extra

2 tablespoons

2 large fennel bulbs, thinly sliced

2 large handfuls parsley, coriander and/or mint,

tender leaves and stems ground sumac (optional) flaky sea salt

Using a sharp paring knife, score the lamb about 1cm deep every few inches or so – this is a really large cut of meat and we aren’t trying to keep it intact or anything, but we still want to cook it on the bone. Making these incisions will help season the meat deeply and cook more evenly.

Season the lamb with salt and pepper; you’ll need at least 1 teaspoon coarse salt per 450g. Sprinkle with the fennel seeds, making sure to get everything into those incisions.

Whisk the yoghurt, garlic, oregano, chilli flakes, olive oil and the ¼ cup lemon juice in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper. As if you were applying a mud mask, smear the yoghurt all over the lamb, making sure to get into all nooks and crannies. Let the meat sit, lightly covered with plastic wrap, at room temperature, for at least 1 hour or up to 2 hours, or wrap in plastic and keep in the refrigerator overnight. Preheat the oven to 150°C.

Scatter half the fennel slices around the bottom of a large roasting tin and season with salt and pepper. Without wiping off any excess marinade, place the lamb on top, fat side up.

Roast until the lamb registers 45°C when a thermometer is inserted about 5cm deep into the thickest part of the leg (taking care not to touch the bone), about 60-90 minutes.

Increase the oven temperature to 230°C and continue to cook until the lamb has reached 50°C and is deeply golden brown all over, with little bits of charred marinade, about 20-25 minutes more. Remove from the oven and let the lamb rest for a few minutes.

Once cooked to your liking, carve the larger lobes off the bone and thinly slice. Or, for more dramatic (albeit slightly messier) presentation, thinly slice directly off the bone, in the style of a large country ham or prosciutto – my favourite way.

Combine the remaining sliced fennel and 2 tablespoons lemon juice; season with salt, pepper and extra chilli flakes. Add the herbs and toss to coat.

Place the lamb on a large platter and scatter with the fennel mixture. Sprinkle with extra fennel seeds, and sumac if using. Drizzle with olive oil and flaky salt and serve with extra yoghurt. DO AHEAD Lamb can be marinated 24 hours ahead, covered loosely and refrigerated. It can also be roasted a few hours ahead, loosely covered with foil, and left at room temperature.