RICK STEIN’S SECRET FRANCE

RICK STEIN, RANDOM HOUSE, H/B, $60

“It’s one of life’s great pleasures to travel hopefully,” says food adventurer Rick Stein. But on this journey through hidden villages from Dieppe to Cassis, 20 years after his last odyssey, will his culinary memories stack up? The 120 recipes by a new generation of cooks are interspersed with images so

French you could shake a baguette at them. In true tradition, they celebrate exquisite – if rustic – indulgence such as chicory (witloof ) gratin awash with oozy, unctuous gruyère or chicken fricassee with morels in a decadent cream and wine sauce. Others are light and simple – well, there is a salads section and the fish dishes (poached skate with warm tomato vinaigrette; garlicky clams) could be substituted for local varieties. But, let’s face it, French cooking is not about pursed lips and parsimony. If you don’t take carnal pleasure in rich, roasted meats, buttery sauces and the prettiest, glistening French raspberry tart ever, your heart won’t be won, despite Rick’s evocative recipe intros. CM