FALASTIN

SAMI TAMIMI & TARA WIGLEY, EBURY PRESS, H/B, $60

It’s hard to talk about Palestine, even about its food, without talking about politics, a fact that the authors ruefully acknowledge. However they steer a careful course, joyfully letting the food be foremost while telling the stories of cooks, restaurateurs and producers to see deeper. The authors hail from the Ottolenghi camp and the influence is plain – but you’ll get no complaints from me there. I was leafing through this book while trying to pull together a lockdown Easter feast for two, calling out, “Oooh, this one sounds good,” and “Mmmm, let’s try…” With aubergines, chickpeas, tahini, lemons and mint on hand we were all set. A lack of ingredients means the splendour of maqlubet el foul el akdhar (upside-down rice with lamb and broad beans) will have to wait, but I’m raring to go. Fortunately for these times when substitutions are necessary, each recipe is headed by handy ‘playing around’ ideas, of ways to change up the ingredients for something a little different. TW