JOSH NILAND (PICTURED) IS GOING TO

change fish for you forever. How you cook it, how (and how often) you eat it. It doesn’t matter if you cook for a living or just for your friends and family. There’s inspiration here for every skill level, from the tentative admirer of the firm white fillet to the professional gastronaut looking to set herself a challenge.

Why don’t we cook more seafood at home? Does it always need so much acidity paired with it? Can we prep it without getting it wet? What happens when we age it more? Cook it less? And – most crucially for Josh, perhaps – why can’t we use more of the fishes in the sea, and why can’t we make more of each and every fish we buy? How can we do this better?

Nose-to-tail cooking of animals is readily accepted worldwide. Josh has set his mind to no less lofty a goal than bringing the same understanding and appreciation to the creatures of the deep. Send me whatever’s in the best condition, he tells his suppliers, and I’ll figure out a way to put it on the plate. Blood, guts and bones. You don’t have to cook these things, but if you want to, Josh will show you how. (He has smart ideas about what to do with mullet scales, trout throats and mackerel sperm, should you want them.) He’ll also show you how to pick a fresh fish, poach it or crisp its skin. The only thing that excites Josh Niland more than exploring his subject is the chance to equip others with that same knowledge.