WELL SEASONED
David Neville on resourcefulness, reducing food waste and layering ingredients to make something delicious.
David Neville on resourcefulness, reducing food waste and layering ingredients to make something delicious.
THERE’S LOTS OF... RHUBARB Rhubarb is a curious piece of produce, with striking ruby and emerald colours, slender edible stalks and large poisonous leaves. Crunchy when raw and soft when cooked, it is a vegetable often used as a fruit. Its mystery baffles people; what to do with it? The key to its success is its tart flavour and striking colour. With a little know-how, it can be a cook’s secret weapon.
POACHED RHUBARB WITH ROSE WATER & YOGHURT FOOL
SERVES 4 / PREPARATION 15 MINUTES PLUS COOLING TIME / COOKING 20 MINUTES
A fool is the easiest dessert in the world. It had its heyday in the 70s and nothing says 70s food more than desserts in glasses.
1 vanilla bean, split
400g caster sugar
30ml rose water
4 long rhubarb stalks, cut into 4cm lengths 2 gelatine leaves 220 bloom
(standard strength; optional) 350ml cream
150ml Greek-style yoghurt
1 tablespoon pink peppercorns
Place the vanilla bean, 300g of the sugar, 20ml of the rose water and 500ml water in a medium pot with a lid. Bring to the boil, then drop in the rhubarb and return to a simmer. Remove from the heat, cover and allow to stand for 15 minutes.
Place the gelatine in a small bowl of cold water to bloom. In a second pot, put 100ml of the cream and the remaining 100g sugar and place over a low heat to dissolve the sugar. When you see steam beginning to rise, remove from the heat. Remove the gelatine from the water and squeeze out any excess water. Add to the cream and stir to dissolve. Allow to cool to room temperature.
Transfer the cooled cream to a large bowl and add the remaining 250ml cream and 10ml rose water. Whisk to medium-stiff peaks. Fold through the yoghurt and set aside in the fridge.
Remove the rhubarb from the poaching liquid and allow it to fully cool. Carefully divide between 4 standardsized glasses. Drizzle 1 tablespoon poaching liquid into each glass.
Remove the fool from the fridge and stir it with a spatula to aerate it. Divide the fool between the glasses. Return to the fridge until ready to serve.
Lightly crush pink peppercorns between your fingers to loosen the shell from the seed. Spread out on baking paper and gently blow to separate the pink shells. Use to decorate the fools.
Preserved rhubarb & pomegranate agrodolce
This is based on the Italian agrodolce, which translates as ‘sour/sweet’. It is a grand condiment to all things strong in flavour, from game meats to pungent cheeses. Heat 100ml olive oil in a pot. Gently fry 2 sliced shallots and a crushed garlic clove. Add 80ml pomegranate molasses and 60g brown sugar. Reduce over a medium heat until syrupy. Add 600g chopped rhubarb and cook for 10 minutes, stirring regularly. Add 60g each raisins and toasted walnut pieces and continue to cook for 5-6 minutes. Remove from heat and add ¼ cup chopped flat-leafed parsley. Season with sea salt and black pepper.
Rhubarb & tamarind toffee sauce
Put 500g caster sugar in a medium-sized pot with 200ml water. Place over a medium heat and stir until it comes almost to the simmer. Stop stirring once simmering. Brush down the pot sides with a damp pastry brush. Lower the heat and cook until it’s a light caramel colour. Remove from heat and cool for 3-4 minutes. Add 250g tamarind concentrate, 200ml water and 1 cup chopped rhubarb. Return to the heat for 6-7 minutes and cook until rhubarb has fully collapsed. Add a pinch of salt and cool thoroughly. Store in a clean container or bottle in the fridge. Serve with ice cream, fruit crumble or dark chocolate brownies.
Rhubarb & winter citrus salad
Finely slice 250g rhubarb stalks (about 1mm thick). Lightly salt and set aside. Finely slice 2 large fennel bulbs and reserve the fronds. Finely slice 4 radishes. Pat dry the rhubarb and toss with sliced vegetables, 50g red radish shoots and segments of 2 mandarins. Add 2 tablespoons mirin and a tablespoon each soy sauce and rice vinegar. Add a teaspoon of sugar and toasted sesame seeds and toss. Season with salt and pepper.
Rhubarb vinaigrette
Place a large bowl over a pot of simmering water (top this up as required). Add 1 litre red wine vinegar and 500g rhubarb stalks cut into 1cm pieces. Cook for 45-50 minutes. Remove from the heat and add 4-5 lavender stalks and fronds and infuse for 5 minutes. Strain into a clean bowl and store in bottles. Mix 100ml vinegar with 300ml good-quality olive oil, salt and pepper for an instant vinaigrette.